Bedemir & Galahad - 2 Larkins

[MisterE]

Juplahoi iedereen,

enkele maanden terug had ik een nieuwe bestelling voor Chris larkin klaar:
een soloist model, archtop, neck through.

Dit zijn de specs:
Customer: Geert Annys (VSP)
Quotation/Update/ date: 04.03.14
Model Type: Soloist carved top Bedemir model
Body Timber: Mahogany or fiddleback sycamore (stained brown) or something else
Top: Lovely quilt as supplied
Colour: Black cherry
Pickups Type & Position: TB4 black in bridge, middle to be decided, Sustainiac at neck
Switching / Circuitry: Vol/piezo volume/Sustainiac intensity/5 way selector/2 mini toggles laid out as Strat.
Graphtec Acoustiphonic pre-amp.
Bridge/Trem Unit, Type & Colour: Graphtec Ghost LB63 black
Neck Timber: Neck through design. Laminates of finest flamed maple with veneer details.
Neck Profile: Flat C.
Fingerboard Timber: Ebony with white binding and those lovely 7 string type inlays!
Fingerboard: Camber 16" Frets type and number 22 Dunlop 6110 (Fender bass type)
Scale length: 25.5"
Machines, Type & Colour: 6 Schaller M6 bottom locking 6L, black
Comments / Customising: Schaller Straplocks.
Fingerboard width 43mm for the trem nut.
Black pickup rings.
2 side outlets.
Larkin headstock. Faux binding?
Voor de top van deze gitaar had ik het volgend stukje hout gevonden:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qsOq-p56hNQ/U8AUsYFgqvI/AAAAAAAACVU/umQMkeDLu5c/w590-h393-no/00+-+wood2.jpg

Nadat ik mijn bas aan m'n zoon had gegeven, besloot ik om er eentje te laten maken door Chris.
Dit zijn de specs van de bas:
Model Type: 5B CONTOUR BODY
Body Timber: Poplar
Top and back: Quilted maple
Colour: Gloss AC lacquer, cherry burst.
Pickups Type & Position: Larkin/Armstrong humbucking pickups.
Switching / Circuitry: Mag vol (pull for passive), mag blend, bass, mid and treble, mini switch for mid frequency select(Aguilar active),
Stacked dual concentric for piezo.
Bridge/Trem Unit, Type: Hipshot A,
Colour: brass, gold.
Neck Timber: Laminates of flamed maple with carbon fibre, mahogany veneers between. Two way trussrod
Neck Profile: Narrow (47-70mm), slim depth.
Fingerboard Timber: Rosewood.
Pearl custom markers.
Fingerboard Camber 16"
Frets type and number 24 X 6110 Fender bass frets.
Scale length 889MM/35" Machines, Type & Colour 5 X M4 gold
Comments / Customising: Contour body, Dunlop Straploks, case.
Het hout voor de top van de bas:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4Kx4WhWz8XU/U8AUi8w8yBI/AAAAAAAACVE/cUIXjUBCwUs/w590-h393-no/00+-+Wood.jpg
Ik had mijn e-mail naar Chris begonnen met; "I have a plan, and it involves wood"
Dit deed Chris denken aan een scene uit Monty Python & The Holy Grail waarin Bedemir zijn plan uitlegt voor het bouwen van een houten konijn en dat hij, Galahad en Lancelot vervolgens uit het konijn klimmen...
(Chris & ik zijn beide grote Monty Python fans)

Zo kwam het dat we besloten om de gitaar Bedemir en de bas Galahad te noemen.

In de komende weken zal ik het verloop van de bouw van deze instrumenten posten.

[MisterE]

En zo begint het:

I spent three hours looking at wood and trying to work out the best way to get the look I wanted for the through neck and eventually decided the right way to go was to have 4 x 20mm wide pieces of flamed maple with three 3mm stringers of mahogany.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FtoEz62s92M/U8AOpRbsQAI/AAAAAAAACTo/PzkZ60nLWaY/w590-h393-no/01+-+lookingandmeasuring.jpg


So I cut up the maple…
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7eqdwiQ6-64/U8AOpSqRnEI/AAAAAAAACTo/MJHax5yOL9g/w590-h393-no/02+-+slicingmaple.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JwO-f3vIGGQ/U8AOpdIy9UI/AAAAAAAACTo/u6v-81sIF6U/w590-h333-no/03+-+slicedmaple.jpg

…and laid it out ready to glue it.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6vszr6rxydM/U8AOp0fkOAI/AAAAAAAACTo/u8DMsdWiHss/w590-h196-no/04+-+neckcomponents.jpg

[stijnkenens]

Cool.

Bring it on !!!


s.

[MisterE]

First I glued up the through neck sandwich.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a58Yt0frWPs/U8AOqOzz8OI/AAAAAAAACPY/x7ufmLRmNVk/w590-h299-no/05+-+throughnecksandwich.jpg


Then I cut the pieces for the bass neck and glued them up too.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YNPQC1yddtw/U8AOqO34fgI/AAAAAAAACPk/Phcd4HFBcdM/w590-h218-no/06+-+bassnecksandwich.jpg


I then selected some poplar for the bass body,
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbnOhZdUxq8/U8AOqfFM6zI/AAAAAAAACTo/ZkWxGgKw118/w590-h176-no/07+-+poplar.jpg


marked it out and planed it. Then I spotted some hairline cracks which just went into my marked body (the redline) area in that piece so I scrapped it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fLB6mLbXDoE/U8AOyPEDjBI/AAAAAAAACTA/3e94VPJIUBc/w590-h393-no/08+-+hiddencracks.jpg


So I started on a second piece of poplar and when I planed into that a dark coloured area appeared so I scrapped that piece too. You can’t see these dark patches until you plane into them.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XCOk5ukaDa0/U8AOqieDJnI/AAAAAAAACQI/LFm0_gD6uYM/w590-h393-no/09+-+failedpieces.jpg


The third piece, I was able to plane to size without a problem.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YVj6iZVdEU8/U8AOrKbVbrI/AAAAAAAACP0/buwpYWm1z-s/w590-h295-no/11+-+cleanpoplar.jpg


On the quilt for the bass overlay I marked out and cut out a piece suitable for the headstock overlay then trimmed the remainder to suit the body shape.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NKw0xsXcFkQ/U8DDJkQK9FI/AAAAAAAACYE/xX9K0-QLa_Q/w590-h393-no/11b+-+takeitfromhere.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bjWzRoHmmag/U8AOrquVyoI/AAAAAAAACQE/x_VSLxB_-3k/w590-h323-no/12+-+headstockveneer.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cw_i493nKI4/U8AOrxlm57I/AAAAAAAACQA/OwnIaJ3H0P8/w590-h270-no/13+-+overlayandcore.jpg

[MisterE]

On the bass side of the body there needs to be an section removed for the arm relief.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QocBaPNnrqc/U8AOtDdfdaI/AAAAAAAACRo/rbRza6wIoHs/w590-h317-no/14+-+armcutaway.jpg


This is smoothed and the overlay bent to fit over this. How I did this is a secret! Well I could tell you, but not the organisms.
Je vraagt je waarschijnlijk af waar de term "organisms" vandaan komt.
Ik had de bouw van mijn eerste Larkin gepost op sevenstring.org
Vandaar dat Chris het steeds over de organisms heeft ;)


The overlay was then glued to the core for bass and treble sides.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Crmk1XZzGu4/U8AOtKU0o-I/AAAAAAAACQU/o36BZi7_VoU/w590-h393-no/15+-+trebsideglued.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mvOpKjEejRY/U8AOtp04QYI/AAAAAAAACQg/lifiTXio150/w590-h393-no/16+-+basssideglued.jpg

[MisterE]

The sandwiches for the through neck and bass neck have been tidied up - the figure is good.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--dWa1PpWamo/U8AOt3dWy0I/AAAAAAAACRM/Je06-rRkjkI/w590-h219-no/17+-+throughneckbassneck.jpg


The headstock for the bass is wider than the shaft so I cut out a piece from the sandwich that would become the headstock and glued ‘ears’ to it to get the required size.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-byd4sQwd02Q/U8AOudC4y-I/AAAAAAAACQs/e6lNWWIrozs/w590-h203-no/18+-+headstockandshaft.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lhYF1ULz7GI/U8AOueHJTTI/AAAAAAAACQw/WsV20wTaqeY/w590-h308-no/19+-+youneedears.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Us6oSlMELos/U8AOuioTaiI/AAAAAAAACRA/EgYaJEXy7BI/w590-h393-no/20+-+earsglued.jpg

[stijnkenens]

Je ziet dat die man ervaring heeft met wat hij doet, als je het wat in de handen hebt, dan vlieg je door zo'n bouw.

Weet jij hoeveel instrumenten hij ondertussen gebouwd heeft?


s.

[MisterE]

Ik denk in de 30+ jaar dat hij bezig is dat hij er meer dan 700 gemaakt heeft.

[MisterE]

Blijkbaar had Chris enkele bezoekers, één met een perfecte 1954 Gibson L4 archtop en, enkele minuten later, iemand met een Dyer harp guitar


After my visitors left I heard a strange hissing sound in the workshop. I couldn’t see any snakes ( perhaps St Patrick missed one?) so I investigated further to find the water drain valve on the compressor tank was leaking. It took a bit of messing around but I was able to fix it but at the expense of working on your instruments. In the time that was left I planed the joint and glued the bass body halves, cut a section from the through neck for a headstock, dimensioned it and glued on the headstock veneer and did the same for the bass headstock.
Who know what will happen today? Life is a mystery!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lNOHlh6vcD4/U8AOvCORC5I/AAAAAAAACQ8/aJCel7bz5xk/w590-h282-no/21+-+planejoint.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-okEkdK8EY7g/U8AOvuF6MRI/AAAAAAAACRY/hbXpYu1Zcto/w590-h393-no/22+-+bassbodyglued.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AYAU8YdJUC8/U8AOv9mi6-I/AAAAAAAACRQ/_XZrc0wdmPA/w590-h141-no/23+-+headstocksection.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4BftLH2ncko/U8AOwm5evkI/AAAAAAAACRs/v_f2C-luUvs/w590-h393-no/24+-+guitarheadstockpieces.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BmmsWSZopdY/U8AOw5DjjdI/AAAAAAAACRc/uZ9b2Sgp7Kk/w590-h393-no/25+-+bassheadstockpieces.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pRgj5_1kae8/U8AOxRexEvI/AAAAAAAACRw/5tBfISGuthU/w590-h393-no/26+-+headstocksglued.jpg

[MisterE]

Ik heb de twee stukken hout voor de tops gevonden bij Holz Fascination, Duitsland (http://www.holz-faszination.de/home/node/2)
Chris liet me een tijdje terug weten dat het dikste stuk te dik was voor wat hij nodig had en stelde voor om een plak af te snijden en dit kon dan eventueel voor een later project gebruikt worden.
Ik zal dus verplicht zijn om volgend jaar weer een gitaar te laten bouwen
Chris moest vooraf twee stukken van de zijkant afsnijden om later te gebruiken voor de binding. Hij wilde de afmetingen weten van de gitaar die ik voor volgend jaar in gedachten had - een '84 G&L interceptor.
Ik was iets te laat om zijn e-mail te beantwoorden.
Dit is wat hij schreef:

I’m trying to find the name of the limited edition guitar that you have so I can get dimensions and know how to cut the big slab of quilt so that a slice can be used for one in the future. I’m terrified to cut this piece in case I make a mistake (of any kind!)

ChrisBandSaw.

Hij ondertekend zijn mails altijd met ChrisZusEnZo warbij de zusenzo altijd betrekking heeft tot het bericht.
Vervolgens schreef hij:

Dear TooLateTwin,

I made an executive decision. I overcame my fear of the dreaded quilt and I cut off the edge of the pieces for the binding which left 180mm and I think this will be enough for any electric guitar. So no need for any ruling on your part.

ChrisDecisive.

Hij noemt mij zijn jongere tweeling omdat we dezelfde verjaardag hebben. Daarbij hebben we dezelfde (absurde) humor, delen een passie voor motoren, chocoladecake, wijn en hebben nog heel wat overeenkomstige karaktertrekjes, ideeën en principes.
We zijn dit te weten gekomen toen ik hem een b ezoekje bracht terwijl hij mijn sevenstring (http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=930923&highlight=ASAD) aan het bouwen was.

In de volgende mail schreef hij:

The Lovely Syra didn’t force me to watch any football tonight possibly because there isn’t any.

Dear Doctor. I had this irrational fear of cutting this piece of quilted maple that was causing me anxiety and sleepless nights until now when I decided it was time to get my chainsaw out, put on boxing gloves, a blindfold and attack it. And you know it was not so bad and my life has taken a new and happier path and my creative consciousness has been re-awakened. Thank you for your advice and support. ChrisPatient.

So, as you know, I cut the two edges off the quilt which will be used for binding and then sliced it longways to make it the correct size for the guitar top and this created another 6mm top for another job at some time.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oLgVLlj6a9g/U8AOx59KtFI/AAAAAAAACSE/hFU6YBTq5CY/w590-h320-no/27+-+bindingbits.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ac96vChD0bs/U8AOywdYRuI/AAAAAAAACSI/JwYBvrEtnko/w590-h337-no/28+-+sliced.jpg


Then I did a rough layout of the through neck on the neckshaft by comparing it to a number of bits of other guitars all of which feature in some way in your Conspec. This actually took a lot of thinking because there are a number of technical difficulties in doing this guitar and I need to be sure that I had covered them all before I did any damage.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QnpfPoCi0UA/U8AOzCjB0xI/AAAAAAAACSg/WqQBeadudVY/w590-h287-no/29+-+layout.jpg


After all the thinking I was able to mark up the neckshaft with component positions and other critical bits.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WFhvMhkA6iY/U8AOzb2mz6I/AAAAAAAACSY/_g8slpf6yVc/w800-h360-no/30+-+wastebits.jpg


Then I did a rough layout of the through neck on the neckshaft by comparing it to a number of bits of other guitars all of which feature in some way in your Conspec. This actually took a lot of thinking because there are a number of technical difficulties in doing this guitar and I need to be sure that I had covered them all before I did any damage.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BoTSrfQEDEU/U8I6HYGmREI/AAAAAAAACYg/heB4gZW8tuM/w590-h249-no/29b+-+roughlayout.jpg


After all the thinking I was able to mark up the neckshaft with component positions and other critical bits.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QnpfPoCi0UA/U8AOzCjB0xI/AAAAAAAACSg/WqQBeadudVY/w590-h287-no/29+-+layout.jpg


Now I knew what bits of the neckshaft I needed and what bits I didn’t. So I cut those off which made quite a bit of expensive firewood.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BoTSrfQEDEU/U8I6HYGmREI/AAAAAAAACYg/heB4gZW8tuM/w590-h249-no/29b+-+roughlayout.jpg


Now I knew what bits of the neckshaft I needed and what bits I didn’t. So I cut those off which made quite a bit of expensive firewood.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WFhvMhkA6iY/U8AOzb2mz6I/AAAAAAAACSY/_g8slpf6yVc/w800-h360-no/30+-+wastebits.jpg

[MisterE]

Vervolg:

I prepared the scarf joints for the headstocks as I now knew where they had to be placed.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L6LZUAH9s_g/U8AOzqclM4I/AAAAAAAACS0/9OMbmI-YUTo/w1000-h271-no/31+-+scarfjoint.jpg


I made the joints and glued them up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gFYyPEHv_QE/U8AOzzNTOoI/AAAAAAAACSo/NXW827oJJ0M/w590-h393-no/32+-+guitarjoint.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sjgq8K0o0aY/U8AO0FtCsPI/AAAAAAAACS8/9zoREIDxT08/w590-h393-no/33+-+bassjoint.jpg


So endeth the day. It was a good day and having confronted the demon quilt I can now work on with confidence. There will still be those technical problems but I’m pretty sure I have a good handle on them now.

ChrisReborn.
p.s. I also cut out the bass body and thicknessed it but forgot to take a picture. Use your imagination.

[MisterE]

Nog wat nieuws van Chris:


Good evening WineLovingTwin,
We have opened a bottle of Corbieres and it is rather nice! We both still have colds and can’t taste a lot but we are going to enjoy it.
I got a good bit done today. Trussrods fitted and carbon fibre inserts in the bass neck. The through neck has been hacked again to remove the wood where the overlay will fit and the overlay has been thicknessed and jointed. The fiddleback ‘wings ‘ have been prepared and a veneer of mahogany added to the jointing edge. Looking good.
And we have finished the Corbieres now. Still have the heavy colds but who cares?
I’ll probably glue the wings on tomorrow.
ChrisMedicated

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NPu_PixGe-E/U8C_dWUJ6gI/AAAAAAAACW0/pzzxJHldGwI/w590-h222-no/34+-+trussrodlayout.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Xzf9sMyV14/U8C_daAp4LI/AAAAAAAACXg/DZpembFgEuU/w590-h222-no/35+-+trussrodjig.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZOTf3MH8Pvc/U8C_dTCwgbI/AAAAAAAACWo/U36AOiw-nss/w590-h227-no/36+-+guitartrussrodslot.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LaBNRjXbtAI/U8C_dxk4B5I/AAAAAAAACWM/BwU0T6sAe_Y/w590-h393-no/37+-+trussrodcovered.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dbg53mn165o/U8C_eIuGQCI/AAAAAAAACWU/YcNaCQJJGnA/w590-h393-no/38+-+carbon.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vri23MgneqU/U8C_eZaMPKI/AAAAAAAACXY/qtdXYSp6mog/w590-h283-no/39+-+carboncovered.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z_aOED_eEUw/U8C_edPq8RI/AAAAAAAACWc/-FKg0IxVerg/w590-h214-no/40+-+morewastewood.jpg

[MisterE]

Part deux:

The overlay glued
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tvjlLLEyRaA/U8C_e67wbuI/AAAAAAAACWg/Yy02LOC3cL8/w590-h393-no/41+-+overlayglued.jpg

pickup lead slot:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-43DJGR4lbIs/U8C_fP4yLYI/AAAAAAAACWw/hP7fBXrsEQY/w590-h393-no/42+-+pickupleadslot.jpg

cutting the sycamore fiddleback for the wings:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6MGaQHXWd2Q/U8C_fphpmdI/AAAAAAAACW4/YGsw8TMX11g/w590-h393-no/43+-+lumpoffiddleback.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kys_BhTD4j8/U8C_gEF4lYI/AAAAAAAACXQ/rTpv48w4GEk/w590-h393-no/44+-+wingscut.jpg

Layout for the wings:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nf_CHsD0AUo/U8C_g4E-RWI/AAAAAAAACXM/NmUqPyqQJ3M/w590-h393-no/45+-+wingslayout.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BkzXZFx4-OQ/U8C_hM4dHNI/AAAAAAAACXU/e-esbd2-C2g/w590-h393-no/46+-+glueears.jpg

[MisterE]

Gisteren kreeg ik deze mail van Chris:


Strange day. This morning I helped The Lovely Syra dismantle the Castlegregory Carnival Art and Craft exhibition for an hour and then we had visitors from Germany who stayed until lunchtime. They were Joachim and his wife who are on a tour of Ireland. He has bought two of my instruments in the past and has an idea for a new acoustic so I was happy to spend time with him.
After lunch I did some trimming to the through neck (more waste wood!) then dimensioned the wings and glued them on. This is quicker to describe than to do! It’s starting to look more like a guitar now. I then levelled the bass neck ready to make the neck joint. But I can’t go ahead with this until I know the dimensions of the bridge. I was promised that the drawings would be emailed to me last week but of course they were not. I emailed them early this morning to remind them but,until now, They have not responded. It’s annoying.
So just two pics.

ChrisAnnoyed.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7CunuKbIpik/U8V_tzQbnKI/AAAAAAAACZc/Bh1A79j9Beg/w590-h325-no/47+-+wingsglued.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iXz7NBY-XBo/U8V_t8QSGlI/AAAAAAAACac/c94upDjDOA8/w590-h415-no/48+-+levelbassneck.jpg

[MisterE]

Deze avond kreeg ik nog een mail in m'n mailbox.


A nice technical day which I enjoyed. Loads more expensive firewood created which we will be grateful for next winter.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jxsEoUGgREQ/U8V_t_OUcvI/AAAAAAAACaY/lOw7nmIwfm4/w590-h393-no/49+-+trimcore.jpg


The joining surfaces between the core and the overlay had to be made perfect and this is done slowly with a hand plane and lost of checking with a straight edge. Satisfying when done right.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VV39UxwXq34/U8V_uTyV5TI/AAAAAAAACZY/pR8dEuwg_Xc/w590-h393-no/50+-+leveltop.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hMkx1YHBxFc/U8V_uXvYTiI/AAAAAAAACag/cf1bRDnFUwU/w590-h393-no/51+-+planejointsurface.jpg


To fit the overlay to the core the neck end has to be trimmed….
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-osERbWZLBHQ/U8V_uufi0jI/AAAAAAAACZk/nZ6brmBK-gc/w590-h393-no/52+-+trimneckend.jpg


...and a straight tenon created with the router.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NatpI0cT-uQ/U8V_u_T7ziI/AAAAAAAACaM/G3dpcmizaog/w590-h393-no/53+-+routtenon.jpg


The mortice is cut into the overlay. This has to be exact to keep the strength around the heel area on the finished instrument.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-voydkqwvBYw/U8V_vHeIL1I/AAAAAAAACaQ/6SKvoBmGiNQ/w590-h393-no/54+-+joint.jpg


To get this perfect there is a lot of trimming with a chisel. Not only does the joint have to be perfect but the overlay has to line up with the body centre so it takes a while.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ndrVTwHZvj4/U8V_vuj1HjI/AAAAAAAACaI/ur-EKndbybE/w590-h393-no/55+-+trimjoint.jpg


One last check.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ly4Kzc6tvaU/U8V_v2tAR-I/AAAAAAAACZ8/wUAo7_wvzPg/w590-h393-no/56+-+goodfit.jpg


I then created some even more expensive waste.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iP5qCIoAinY/U8V_wFoe-II/AAAAAAAACaA/JwnhpFIJM28/w590-h393-no/57+-+overlaytrimmed.jpg


And glued the overlay to the core. I used three screws to hold the overlay in the correct position while I put the clamps on. The two nearest the neck are inside of the pickup area and the one in the middle (not visible in the pic) is where the trem will go so the screw holes will not be visible on the finished instrument (unless I have made a terrible cock-up!)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E9Kq1CVRoQQ/U8V_wt8yw0I/AAAAAAAACaE/wxlBumHGr0E/w590-h393-no/58+-+overlayglued.jpg


I called Hipshot in NewYork and got them to email me the correct drawings for the bass bridge which was a good result.


So, another good day.


ChrisTechnical.

[Woml]

Ik had mijn e-mail naar Chris begonnen met; "I have a plan, and it involves wood"
Dit deed Chris denken aan een scene uit Monty Python & The Holy Grail waarin Bedemir zijn plan uitlegt voor het bouwen van een houten konijn en dat hij, Galahad en Lancelot vervolgens uit het konijn klimmen...
(Chris & ik zijn beide grote Monty Python fans)

Zo kwam het dat we besloten om de gitaar Bedemir en de bas Galahad te noemen.

Erg leuk om te zien allemaal! :ok: Ben erg benieuwd naar het eindresultaat...

Maar als rechtgeaarde mede-Monty-Python-fan, die van de week toevallig opnieuw Mony Python & The Holy Grail heeft gezien, moet ik wel opmerken dat het citaat uit de film niet verder ging dan "I have a plan" (zonder enige vermelding van hout), en dat het plan werd geopperd door Sir Bedevere. Bedemir mogelijk als gedachtensprong vanuit Boromir, maar die kwam uit Lord Of The Rings.

Ni!

[MisterE]

I stand corrected Sir Knight :p

Voor de volledigheid.
In mijn conversatie met Chris had ik geschreven : "I have a plan"
Hij had teruggemaild met de vraag: "Is it a cunning plan" waarbij hij refereerde naar Blackadder
Waarop ik antwoorde : "No it's a plan involving wood" doelend op het plan van Bedevere om een houten konijn te bouwen

Vandaar.
ik had me de scene opgezocht waarin dit voorkwam en was op website terecht gekomen waar de volledige script op stond:

http://www.sacred-texts.com/neu/mphg/mphg.htm

Hier zul je zien dat Tery Jone's personage Bedemir genoemd wordt.
Vandaar mijn dwaling.

Ecky-ecky-ecky-ecky-pikang-zoom-boing-....

[MisterE]

Nog heel wat info ontvangen.
Ik zal dit opsplitsen.


Good evening HairyTwin,
Before that I made a copy template that I fitted onto the rough body to define the final shape. Naturally I forgot to take a picture of the next stage where I used the template to guide a router around the body to remove excess wood. Then I sanded the body edges to the exact shape. I then did a final layout for the pickups and trem positions. I have adjusted pickup position to strat style as the original Jackson template is for 24 frets. Ignore any blue ink marks on the overlay which are just rough guides from many steps ago. What you see now is the final and exact shape. I think the next thing I should do to the guitar is make the fingerboard to ensure that everything lines up. But tomorrow I will work on the bass so it catches up with the guitar.

Making a copy of the template
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SdR36ktQKHE/U8obBm0bgvI/AAAAAAAACdc/t96xG550E-E/w590-h393-no/59+-+makecopytemplate.jpg

Sanding the edges
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G0ZvswMalH4/U8oa6Ca0-VI/AAAAAAAACfs/wLjsY-sJcY0/w590-h393-no/60+-+sandedges.jpg

Layout
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gTTpbT4hPbU/U8oa6BGVN_I/AAAAAAAACfs/aikPslQhe8Q/w590-h393-no/61+-+layoutagain%2521.jpg


With a normal through neck with a thinner overlay there is a lot of the neck going under the overlay. In this case with a thick overlay there is much less which is why it was so important to get the overlay to neck joint as perfect as possible yesterday. And it is very good. I think I will put two dowels through the outside of the joint to further lock the overlay and neck together and transfer the pull of the strings through the two components (neck and overlay). A pic when I’ve done this will explain all. I’m thinking out loud which is a sign of madness so I’ll stop.


ChrisRaving

[MisterE]

Good evening RedWineTwin,
First, and a day late, here is the copy template for the body that I forgot to take a picture of yesterday. I couldn’t use the master template as I need to allow space for the neck end so I made a copy and mutilated it! This was screwed onto the body top to guide the router.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pkLv0RE-oj4/U8oa6T-BvWI/AAAAAAAACfs/Fm1qXobcMbE/w590-h276-no/62+-+copytemplate.jpg


Also here are the dowels I talked about last night and I fitted today. They help lock the top to the through neck.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJe5LxkdhdY/U8oa6i1ml_I/AAAAAAAACbY/N7p00sgwLrA/w590-h393-no/63+-+lockingdowels.jpg


While we are at guitar things I made the ebony fingerboard (rosewood bass blank also in the pic), cut the fretslots, made the binding and glued it on.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IQsS8nAFng8/U8oa63-fBlI/AAAAAAAACbc/r_RDjEJzohI/w590-h185-no/64+-+fingerboardblanks.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qche8Ydn1f0/U8oa7LW4d3I/AAAAAAAACbw/J4k2A4geNvY/w590-h393-no/65+-+fertslotting.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tFChuUjx3mg/U8oa7XehnmI/AAAAAAAACbo/zstvnKNVKks/w590-h393-no/66+-+cuttingbinding.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vtdLvOn_6dk/U8oa8JBAI0I/AAAAAAAACfs/yrqUlPMrCKo/w590-h248-no/67+-+gluedfbbinding.jpg

Vervolgens heeft hij verder aan de bas gewerkt maar dat is voor later.
nu wat genieten van de zon ;-)

[MisterE]

Deel I


Now the bass. This going to be a bit detailed because I want to use this for the Tech Bit in the next newsletter. So, if you are bored, I’m sorry.
This is how I make the mortice and tenon joint for my fixed neck instruments.
First I cut the mortice in the body using a router with a template and guide ring.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pk6zUBFYJiQ/U8oa8AOQ5gI/AAAAAAAACb8/uJwQAWjvrhk/w590-h393-no/68+-+bodyandroutertemplate.jpg


The template is aligned with the body and then raised to get the correct neck to body angle. You can see the calculations I did to get this angle written in pencil on the body top!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fvsn8YaD9P0/U8oa85dMMBI/AAAAAAAACfs/LyDg5QjNpJc/w590-h328-no/69+-+checkneckangle.jpg


A router works by cutting away wood with a rotating cutter. The guide ring around the cutter follows the template.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GMxglrriWjM/U8oa9LEhl6I/AAAAAAAACfs/PuuemWAZ6xQ/w590-h393-no/70+-+cutterandguide.jpg


The router is set to a final depth of 26mm and the mortice cut in a series of shallow cuts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ELMjcRjoVCI/U8oa9plmnII/AAAAAAAACfs/FedmJ4nE10s/w590-h360-no/71+-+routmortice.jpg


Nice clean job.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mjPEYOEWZNs/U8oa-If5XrI/AAAAAAAACcU/x5BhNRsn0aQ/w590-h393-no/72+-+mortice.jpg



Now to cut the mortice on the neck. Both mortice and tenon are offset 3.5mm to the bass side which allows for an asymmetrical final carving of the heel which gives better access than a symmetrical one. The neck angle is transferred to the sides of the tenon and these are cut to the correct depth using the radial arm saw.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EgAdRbW4Ngk/U8oa-VJ1zSI/AAAAAAAACfs/2ycyznFDB40/w590-h359-no/73+-+markneckangle.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z1-iF-lxgw4/U8oa-j7bw3I/AAAAAAAACfs/M4DEdo4w2YE/w590-h393-no/74+-+cutsides.jpg



Cutting lines are marked and cut oversize on the band saw. Why oversize? Because it is easier to make the tenon smaller to fit the mortice than to make it bigger if I cut it undersize!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rv9pIHioL-s/U8oa_W6DKLI/AAAAAAAACdI/O4siDCVHKkk/w590-h393-no/75+-+cuttenon.jpg


With a bit of trimming the tenon is made to fit the mortice.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UJ8O-8qvars/U8oa_FOfOII/AAAAAAAACfs/nR0DibswLAE/w590-h393-no/76+-+trimtenon.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fy2RINvrlSU/U8oa_X275VI/AAAAAAAACcs/EsWcK2AqIMQ/w590-h393-no/77+-+roughfit.jpg

[MisterE]

Part II

The body side of the joint is given the rough shape it will have on the finished, asymmetrical joint and this is transferred to the neck too.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q0sBobuXSUM/U8oa_zeFBII/AAAAAAAACc4/Cn5xcO4Dj0Q/w590-h393-no/78+-+shapejoint.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e3XbLq3IE00/U8oa_9uxopI/AAAAAAAACc0/RnR3u3lFd6w/w590-h393-no/79+-+jointshaped.jpg


Now the tricky bit. The neck side is adjusted with a chisel so that all 4 faces of the joint match the body perfectly and keep the correct neck angle. I use a feeler gauge to check the clearance. If it goes in the joint is not good enough.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SYa25FVN3pM/U8obALCQX-I/AAAAAAAACc8/gCshQyYeiyc/w590-h393-no/80+-+toobigagap.jpg


So more chiselling until everything is perfect.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pdbeaIm9rTg/U8obAUGTw2I/AAAAAAAACe0/B-066Ud_v2c/w590-h393-no/81+-+trimjoint.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T1c3LotUaXs/U8obApUCStI/AAAAAAAACe8/Q0B5rr-ot28/w590-h393-no/82+-+greatjoint.jpg


Sometimes this fitting takes 20 minutes, sometimes 6 hours! This one was about two hours. I dimensioned a rosewood fingerboard, cut the fretslots and then checked the alignment and neck angle.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CyOYhV3obuk/U8obBeTqvUI/AAAAAAAACfA/6k_dUE3IaKg/w590-h300-no/83+-+alignfb.jpg


And to finish here is a picture of the most expensive firewood in Ireland!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5JVG5Ncu7p4/U8obBaze6kI/AAAAAAAACew/hgekWzdbG-Y/w590-h393-no/84+-+expensivefirewood.jpg



That’s enough for one day.
ChrisTiredAnd Happy.

[MisterE]

Ik loop wat achter
Hier het nieuws vanaf vrijdag:


First job was to tidy up the bass neck headstock and then glue on the fingerboard.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VzNbMocSzLA/U8obB48OO9I/AAAAAAAACes/wLrugr8F9jA/w590-h393-no/85+-+bassfbgluedon.jpg


I trimmed the binding on the guitar fingerboard and checked the alignment (it was perfect).
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sMimxRESIXs/U8obCCcKEjI/AAAAAAAACeo/ZCm8Zp20ygY/w590-h393-no/86+-+alignguitarfb.jpg


With the fingerboard nailed in place we now have a guitar shaped thing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cJJQIVL1w28/U8obCavaxGI/AAAAAAAACek/yQhCUOyjA1o/w590-h241-no/87+-+guitarshapedthing.jpg


The end of the fingerboard needs to be supported so I made a suitable piece to do this.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X6ujzu56td8/U8obChY9SNI/AAAAAAAACeg/gcc6LZiXu4w/w590-h393-no/88+-+roughfbsupport.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E44V5FGjVx0/U8obCq4q0fI/AAAAAAAACec/4xzXA_2n0Kw/w590-h393-no/89+-+fbsupporttrimmed.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KKBDabTDnas/U8obC8doXvI/AAAAAAAACeY/oBykf-0YsC4/w590-h393-no/90+-+gluefbendsupport.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KXVeqdxcMiE/U8obDIzfcLI/AAAAAAAACd4/dcYee9F073c/w590-h393-no/91+-+fbsupportitfits.jpg


Next to headstock binding. First I had to shape the headstock and cut the binding channel. This was more difficult than it would be with a regular neck as the extra weight of the through neck and body made it ‘interesting’ to balance the guitar on the router table.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7KjrIxRFrmo/U8obDQpJPGI/AAAAAAAACeU/rRTVgf4bPrY/w590-h393-no/92+-+cutbindingchannel.jpg


Quilted maple is very difficult to bend so the best way to fit the binding was to make it in three sections. First the two curved pieces.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2NeBZJzhS8Q/U8obExZjghI/AAAAAAAACeI/5wpapRWWraE/w590-h393-no/93+-+firstbinding.jpg


Then the long section first bent on the bending iron and then glued in place.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vXjgarYvJiA/U8obEVuBF8I/AAAAAAAACeM/MwjrXuCIoh4/w590-h328-no/94+-+bendbinding.jpg

[MisterE]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B8p0ji-a5_A/U8obFEqmclI/AAAAAAAACeQ/uyyKfv_Gy3c/w590-h393-no/95+-+headstockbinding.jpg


And that was the day done. Next is dinner with a bottle of cold white wine. Yum.

ChrisGlueFingers.

[MisterE]

Het Graphtech probleem:


After sanding the headstock binding down (I forgot to take a pic) most of the day was spent thinking and measuring thanks to GraphTech. If you read the paperwork that comes with the trem unit they say it is a direct replacement for a standard Floyd Rose. So, if that is the case I can just use my incredibly clever jig with interchangeable templates to fit it in the guitar. But it doesn’t look right so I dug out an original FR and a Schaller FR to compare to the GraphTech version.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k58_PVhqsMg/U8_uLHdQm-I/AAAAAAAACh8/Lnfd89VpdYY/w590-h393-no/96+-+3trems.jpg


I usually fit the Schaller version on my guitars which is slightly different from the original but I can use the same templates for both. Not so for the GraphTech which has a narrower and less wide baseplate. You can see this (if you have perfect eyesight and a good imagination) when I put it on top of the Schaller trem in the Stocklist Pointy thing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--sNZprciSTo/U8_uLpGUJLI/AAAAAAAACiM/R3drav-7arg/w590-h393-no/97+-+comparison.jpg


But with a few measurements it turned out to be worse than that. If I were to use the same pivot holes as I normally do relative to the scale length it would be impossible to get the saddles on the Graphtech to intone - the guitar would not play in tune! This is because the saddles they use to hold the piezo elements have different break points to the normal FR.
I then went to the internet and downloaded a dimensional drawing of the GraphTech to compare with the Schaller drawing and found a Strat body which had a FR fitted at the factory. Then I spent a long time looking, comparing and thinking.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h21YPtwTacs/U8_uLx9-gOI/AAAAAAAACiI/D5mVKNUyrFA/w590-h393-no/98+-+research.jpg


Eventually I made a decision on where the pivot points should be and drilled the holes for the inserts. You can see the guitar clamped in my lovely FR routing jig. A thing of beauty and clever too.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kMQXUMBGXGM/U8_uMHI9H1I/AAAAAAAACiQ/u0ffjUrc_08/w590-h393-no/99+-+drillpivotholes.jpg


The way the jig works is that the body is clamped in the jig and lined up with several markers on the jig and then various templates can be inserted into the opening in the top and the router used to cut the correct holes and cavities that the FR requires. The clever bit is that once the body is clamped you can turn the jog over and it exactly lines up the back with templates to cut the spring cavity and cover. I hope you will see this tomorrow if I still have the will to live after today. That is for a regular FR. In this case I will have to alter my templates by glueing in some shims (temporarily) to allow for the GraphTech’s weirdness. Here is one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7DCbGflgZDU/U8_uG5YS2SI/AAAAAAAACjk/Z61ZKaTgcfs/w590-h393-no/100+-+alteredtemplate.jpg



And even with these shims I will still have to do some extra routing to get the nasty thing to fit. For example the front of the spring block cavity will have to be enlarged to allow space for the piezo leads. Also the string locking screws on the GraphTech are longer than the Schaller or Original FR so will need extra clearance at the rear of the unit.
Anyway at the end of the day I had made a start on the routing with two templates.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rjf3FxQmGV4/U8_uG6Akm3I/AAAAAAAACg8/I6PNtAeJkVg/w590-h393-no/101+-+startrout.jpg



Did I mention that I have a sore hand? When I was removing some wood in the area of the string block cavity using a powerful hand drill a 14mm drill bit broke and jammed in the hole. The torque of the drill twisted my hand and arm through 90 degrees and it hurt. I’ve never had this happen before and it goes to show how careful you need to be with power tools. My medical bill will be added to the final invoice.
So I hope things go better tomorrow.
‘bye for now,
ChrisSwollenHand.
p.s. I hope I got the measurements right otherwise this rant will be a bit embarrassing!

[MisterE]

Nog wat nieuws:

You know some of what went on today. I got the trem routing done, the spring cavity and also the rout for the humbucker. It took ages doing little adjustments to the trem rout with makeshift jigs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-keUU1KjOLgg/U8_uG-MgCwI/AAAAAAAACjk/R6Klll-6fGQ/w590-h393-no/102+-+toptemplaterout.jpg
Adjustment for the Graphtech rout:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WzPLqVcMGf8/U8_uHihXzvI/AAAAAAAACiw/-QFu7VqYxg0/w590-h393-no/103+-+adjustmentforGraphTech.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9RiHFfjmW5M/U8_uH3FB78I/AAAAAAAACi4/xXpefIPbZd4/w590-h393-no/104+-+adjustmentrout.jpg

Template for the humbucker:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vEFCJ8eC4Ac/U8_uIPzbddI/AAAAAAAACis/Ytw35Ujyg1U/w590-h393-no/105+-+humbuckercavity.jpg

Back jig with some templates:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_X_wCej7rxw/U8_uId27j8I/AAAAAAAAChM/OIuHzaSGRQw/w590-h393-no/106+-+backinjigwithtemplates.jpg

Back tremolo cavity done:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ubLO9fpC5y4/U8_uIvS26mI/AAAAAAAACio/UkOXRyz1Cew/w590-h393-no/107+-+backcavityguitar.jpg


The a hard afternoons routing the bass body. No nice jig here, just old fashioned templates and clamps - the way our grandfathers did it. Character forming. To save routing time I often remove excess wood using a drill and try not to injure myself. Safer using the drill press.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aWah3csUQVw/U8_uI11ZT_I/AAAAAAAACik/q1xVj3ulkLk/w590-h393-no/108+-+woodremoval.jpg

Routing the control cavity:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L6GEreOzxac/U8_uJE8UeVI/AAAAAAAAChg/VJBmiMsF9m0/w590-h437-no/109+-+basscontrolcavityandlid.jpg

Template for the pickup cavities for the bass
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0nBnNpmxd58/U8_uJrNGstI/AAAAAAAACig/pCHrZdUdM40/w590-h337-no/110+-+pickuptemplatebass.jpg


I had to stop here because JJ Cale was on the radio playing Magnolia and I had to grab an acoustic guitar and play along! I’m OK again now.
Cavities for the pickups done:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jOn5S7tTAFo/U8_uJ4xWE2I/AAAAAAAAChs/GnHQrFNfdZQ/w590-h393-no/111+-+pickupcavities.jpg

[MisterE]

Drilling the wiring channel
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mTEqi0bhb3s/U8_uKE1kfAI/AAAAAAAACic/OYs3swsHfdg/w590-h325-no/112+-+drillwiringchannel.jpg


As I said to you earlier today I had to make new templates for the router to fit the components. And this is how I did it.

First I made rough drawings on the body top of the various components that have to fit in the cavity and then adjust them so that the controls what will appear on the outside look pretty! I then transfer the various shapes to a sheet of clear plastic which is my first template for the template making. Note the reference marks that line the plastic up with the body shape.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T0k3Hv9nXxg/U9VOEdNnOYI/AAAAAAAAClM/plY7c4UQIDw/w590-h393-no/113+-+willtheyfit.jpg


Turning the guitar over and using those same reference marks I can see if what i want to do on the front looks OK on the back - that it will work in practice.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jJQgcRmVro0/U9VOEXp9csI/AAAAAAAAClI/plMTkHFFPUQ/w590-h393-no/114+-+fitthecomponentsin.jpg


In this case the lower edge of the template is too close to the body edge so I have to make adjustments.Once I was happy with that I drew on the places where I would want the screws to go that will hold the backplate on. I cut out the plastic template and draw around it onto plywood. Since the ‘real’ final template for the router needs to be 3.2mm larger in all directions I make sure to add this amount to the plywood.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_y0rRw7u3qM/U9VOFgIONwI/AAAAAAAAClQ/a_Yxa3dcreM/w590-h393-no/115+-+transfertoplywood.jpg


I can now cut around the enlarged drawing to create the ‘real template.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-56OnVV27Vt0/U9VOE5G3L1I/AAAAAAAAClE/_OGW-sEiOLo/w552-h329-no/116+-+cuttemplate.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WuQAtRbB4eQ/U9VOFEZv44I/AAAAAAAACkY/z38yfp-vwlk/w590-h364-no/117+-+holetemplatecut.jpg


I compare this to the guitar body. It looks good but I need to test this with the router just to be sure it is OK so I do a shallow rout on some scrap wood. and compare to my plastic template.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ao1YEs0J3dU/U9VOFsIcHcI/AAAAAAAACk8/7D-kcjN9HXU/w590-h393-no/118+-+cpmparetooriginal.jpg

[MisterE]

So the hole will be Ok. Now I need to make a second template for the cover. Using the hole template I draw around it with a 3.2mm felt tip pen which gives me the right size for the cover. This shape needs to be tidied up so it will look smooth.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kG73mBw6Dp8/U9VOFu1KvBI/AAAAAAAACk4/bAttn-uphA8/w590-h393-no/119+-+copydrawntemplate.jpg


As with the hole template I cut this one out and then do a test rout over the hole test rout to see if they work together. If they don’t at this stage I would have to open a bottle of wine to drown my sorrow. Unfortunately they do work perfectly so no wine.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D85kvY4hqOc/U9VOGP0wmsI/AAAAAAAACkw/QK1glrlBE7s/w590-h393-no/120+-+testpiece.jpg


I use the real templates to mark the position on the body back where I want to go routing making sure I have the correct clearances. Then I remove most of the wood using the pillar drill.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bH9OjOEEaNY/U9VOGYZX37I/AAAAAAAACko/uGYVhCutcRQ/w590-h393-no/121+-+wasteremoval.jpg


And rout the hole first and then the cover.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mJjNjiURDZE/U9VOGvp60dI/AAAAAAAACks/pVCqxM3gLgk/w590-h393-no/122+-+hole-and-cover.jpg


Looks good. I have not routed to the finished depth yet. That will happen after I carve the top.

So that was my day and I’m happy with the result. These new templates will be useful in other jobs I’m sure.

ChrisTemplateMeister.

[MisterE]

So most of the holes on the body are complete now. I made up more templates (somebody has to do it) so that I could rout the cavities for the batteries and for the single coil pickups. I had a template for a single coil from another job but it didn’t look great to me so I made a new and better one. Making templates is time consuming so I consumed some time.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8CV-c7vOWk4/U9VVF3nz3YI/AAAAAAAACmM/s2pE8_8rxos/w590-h393-no/123+-+routsinglecoil.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VwIUU8O3ALc/U9VVF7zCkrI/AAAAAAAACmI/E2VHi-UGq58/w590-h393-no/124+-+singlecoilholes.jpg

Cavity for the battery:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RQAkyjUSwz4/U9VVF5zHjsI/AAAAAAAACmE/ZsZ252eimLo/w590-h393-no/125+-+routbatterycavity.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ecPzrF4YwqY/U9VVGbX1KNI/AAAAAAAACmQ/LZMOBU9icyU/w590-h393-no/126+-+goodfit.jpg


And the bass pickups arrived and, luckily, they fit.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zsW0Y39to30/U9VVWSNfn0I/AAAAAAAACmY/QUGmhOvUXwg/w590-h393-no/127+-+basspickupsarrived.jpg

[Rizz]

Tis ook wel een kunstenaar! En erg communicatief, leuk dat hij je er zo bij betrekt! Kan me voorstellen dat je hem graag laat bouwen voor je..

[jimihattricks]

..en fijn dat alles hier wordt gedeeld!
Leest/kijkt lekker weg.

[MisterE]

Bedankt mensen.
En omdat jullie het zo leuk vinden, hier nog wat kiekjes:

I glued the fingerboard onto the guitar.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ka50YZ3-06g/U9apGV1jAQI/AAAAAAAACn8/yjpcpORWAaA/w590-h393-no/128+-+guitarfingerboardgluedon.jpg


And then here are some stages in carving the bass neck. First I marked out the rough depth.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EmXgkMdsazw/U9apGBipI7I/AAAAAAAACn0/6isC_Td939Y/w590-h393-no/129+-+markedtocut.jpg


Then rough cut the neck out on the bandsaw.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EDHvtkGCQgA/U9apGdmMIEI/AAAAAAAACn4/pPJIRSuvPgo/w590-h393-no/130+-+roughcut.jpg


I need to get a flat surface of the correct taper as a reference point so I do this with the hand plane.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4Ii65_mBcg4/U9apHF93qwI/AAAAAAAACoE/OMJ4PMmcK4o/w590-h393-no/131+-+planebackflat.jpg


The shape is further refined with a small block plane (forgot to take the pic) and then I shape the volute..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-evNkr5aR62s/U9apHdqLzwI/AAAAAAAACnw/otYNpyPVgSs/w590-h393-no/132+-+carvevolutebassneck.jpg


..and refine the shape further using a rasp….
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qqsA8MHIblM/U9apH92uGcI/AAAAAAAACnY/KdAARwM4jVY/w590-h393-no/133+-+raspbassneck.jpg


…remembering to check the dimensions from time to time.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IvFA-tMEQdo/U9apIYlYsQI/AAAAAAAACnk/3aOARue2lYU/w590-h393-no/134+-+checksize.jpg


The carving is smoothed with a scraper which removes tiny amounts of wood with each pass.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Kiz6R3b9Jlg/U9apImWfhhI/AAAAAAAACns/6Y20X2WK6k0/w590-h393-no/135+-+scrapebassneck.jpg


I also shaped the bass body to it’s final profile. The slot where the bridge will be is the canal for the piezo cables into the control cavity.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nOsdqO8geqI/U9apI8nQpOI/AAAAAAAACno/8waoE1uFXOk/w590-h393-no/136+-+bassbodyshaped.jpg

[MisterE]

Het vervolg:

Nice slim bass neck carved. How I am looking forward to doing the inlay for that and the guitar. You can’t imagine how much.

Any way, a bit more scraping and a lot of sanding and then the rest of the day at the computer doing the Newsletter which is almost finished.

This sanding the neck level with a long block.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dXowWL3EKGg/U9k53I7JD0I/AAAAAAAACpg/kYSfGpvh5e4/w590-h393-no/137%2B-%2Bstraightsand.jpg


And this is fine sanding to get a good finish.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DGWI0NXTf9Q/U9k53CTn0CI/AAAAAAAACps/oPL7ouUWpDA/w590-h393-no/138%2B-%2Bfinesand.jpg


And this is the finished carve.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NZ8Sp-DW7As/U9k53BnNd8I/AAAAAAAACpc/l9ccg0UH7gg/w590-h393-no/139%2B-%2Bbassneckcarved.jpg


It suits the body.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DVMb58T8oas/U9k53n3jEKI/AAAAAAAACpw/E_FMUM8YY4Q/w590-h241-no/140%2B-%2Blookingood.jpg


The guitar looks good with the fingerboard on too.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AKQ7qUniNKE/U9k53xeysSI/AAAAAAAACpo/6Drzxa26x_w/w590-h393-no/141%2B-%2Bfingerboardon.jpg

[MisterE]

Chris gaat soms wat onconventioneel te werk. Zie maar hou hij het overtollige hout van de hals verwijdert :crazyhappy:


So I’ve almost finished drilling the guitar with holes, just the tuner holes and the two outlets - technically challenging those two - which will be fun.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBe-cWzmR3w/U9yWxpS4taI/AAAAAAAACqc/uOSRBvdR7UI/w590-h393-no/142%2B-%2Bfinalcavityholes.jpg


Speaking of technically challenging we don’t need a CNC machine to do tricky things. This is how I removed most of the excess wood from the neck so I could carve it.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UTRJBelzITQ/U9yW5Bm3_QI/AAAAAAAACtI/DWcJ5ok0FSM/w590-h393-no/143%2B-%2Bnotcnc.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Haivt8DBUbU/U9yWxkElJUI/AAAAAAAACqY/wMif85LkaxA/w590-h393-no/144%2B-%2Botherend.jpg


Cunning eh? So now the real work started with hammer and chisel, chisel, spokeshave, rasp, plane and, most importantly, scraper. Never underestimate a good scraper which actually does the final shaping. All the time remembering to check the dimensions at fret 1 and 12.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EQVkoxkLON4/U9yWyL5m3lI/AAAAAAAACqo/jCKWK6maGrA/w590-h393-no/145%2B-%2Bhammerandchisel.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dv8CfMJUQlc/U9yWySyZXGI/AAAAAAAACto/XdiLXz9yH7g/w590-h393-no/146%2B-%2Bchiselheel.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6UVPI41SqA8/U9yWymcc_mI/AAAAAAAACto/7DYcoC3y-Q0/w590-h393-no/147%2B-%2Bspokeshave.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z1GqEQxElxI/U9yWywCmqjI/AAAAAAAACq4/MJgRCm6WDU0/w590-h393-no/148%2B-%2Bcheckthickness.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lt2fELlEf00/U9yWzTJ3bZI/AAAAAAAACto/yvCJM444MLc/w590-h393-no/149%2B-%2Bhandplanevolute.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IA-LcThcb0A/U9yWzjgiahI/AAAAAAAACto/QcSv2uErxT8/w590-h393-no/150%2B-%2Bscrape.jpg

[MisterE]

There was an amount of sanding with blocks and by hand and this was where I finished tonight. It still needs fine sanding which I’ll do tomorrow. I like the profile and feel of the neck.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cCcr8oMJV2U/U9yWz1CE-tI/AAAAAAAACto/Ql146qKkamA/w590-h393-no/151%2B-%2Bhandsand.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-una-eica3kE/U9yW0D6SLzI/AAAAAAAACto/jY8GuTosTCw/w590-h393-no/152%2B-%2Bneck1.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wumsCzYidvM/U9yW0agdgwI/AAAAAAAACto/9Z4T-1fkok4/w590-h358-no/153%2B-%2Bneck2.jpg

[MisterE]

In the afternoon I first fine sanded the guitar neck (nice!) and then I had to confront the problem of drilling the holes for the two socket outlets. They require an Imperial 7/8th of an inch hole and there is very little space in the lower part of the side to fit this in so they have to be drilled very accurately. My plan was to make a jig that would hold the guitar solidly on the drill press but, despite modifying the supports for the drill press, it would not go low enough to manage this. So about an hour wasted. But knowledge gained. After much head scratching I came up with a cunning plan. I put a drill head on the drive shaft of the radial arm saw with the 7/8th cutter in it, made a raised bed for the guitar body and clamped it to the bed aligned with the cutter.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pZjA2H1IRRQ/U9yW0nA_6LI/AAAAAAAACto/MsPg3LsoFGM/w590-h393-no/154%2B-%2Bsocketholeanswer.jpg


I was then able to lean over and slowly, very slowly, pull the body of the saw towards the guitar so the cutter could do it’s work.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WvOOF26joyI/U9yW0xUE9sI/AAAAAAAACtw/4WJCxA8GY2I/w590-h393-no/155%2B-%2Bpull.jpg


The saw motor runs faster than the cutter likes so, despite my slow pulling, it still produced burned sawdust but made the accurate holes I needed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fIq7ElGB6BE/U9yW1dHNpqI/AAAAAAAACtw/xYi3TMEXNAU/w590-h393-no/156%2B-%2Bblacksawdust.jpg


I told you there were technical problems with this guitar. So far they have been managed!

After this I was mentally exhausted and decided to have an easy afternoon sanding the two bodies after rounding both edges of the bass and the bottom edge of the guitar.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H4Ulsy5l3Io/U9yW1hOY6DI/AAAAAAAACtw/b-aR82NDnxc/w590-h393-no/157%2B-%2Broutedges.jpg


Quilted maple has very interlocked grain so, even with sharp cutters, it tends to machine with ‘fluffy’ edges that have to be sanded smooth. You can see this on some of the earlier pictures where I cut the pickup holes.

So a couple of hours hand sanding made the bodies look a little better. I have just noticed that the second picture is of me sanding the sides level before I did the rounding.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CEVIbJCuy9k/U9yW2Imk-BI/AAAAAAAACtw/bpC0NJcUJf4/w590-h393-no/158%2B-%2Bblocksand.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zxmQ95Vsf4Q/U9yW2X4lFvI/AAAAAAAACtU/HcYmO-IhuRk/w590-h393-no/159%2B-%2Bhandsand.jpg


The arm cutaway and the back cutaway on the bass body were made.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0lQAB64E8NE/U9yW2jTTgaI/AAAAAAAACrs/oEPCCljMIJw/w590-h393-no/160%2B-%2Blittle-plane.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uszdF6WANEU/U9yW21hIowI/AAAAAAAACtQ/Ulde6jtcS0M/w590-h393-no/161%2B-%2Bscrapecontour.jpg


So at the end of the day I had two pretty well sorted bodies ready for working on the fingerboards tomorrow. That is, if no German ladies arrive!

Later tonight the August Newsletter will be published. If anyone is interested this is the link (http://bit.ly/1zysXDS) that will get you to it. Nice recipe for crab cakes amongst other things.

ChrisTiredArms.

[MisterE]

Good evening dear WineDrinkingTwin - don’t deny it!

So the dreaded inlay process begins. First the fingerboards have to be radiussed and for that to work they have to be straight. Double acting trussrod helps here.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lYSEONZ8bfQ/U9yW3JUt0TI/AAAAAAAACtM/H-Ssb3AUFKw/w590-h393-no/162%2B-%2Bstraight.jpg


And then I use the long, sharp plane to make the correct shape and check it with a template.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SpClrRSSU-I/U9yW3SNTE0I/AAAAAAAACr8/AL9Wy88aR78/w590-h393-no/163%2B-%2Bplaneguitar.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L0GWCtcMESo/U9yW37wFLmI/AAAAAAAACsE/d8FO12cfZg8/w590-h393-no/164%2B-%2Bplanebass.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nrgV1bhM9j4/U9yW4L5yldI/AAAAAAAACsU/Oxm3x6WwYc8/w590-h393-no/165%2B-%2B16inch.jpg


Then I drill the dot holes. For a regular neck I can do this on the drill press as with the bass but for the through neck I have to use a reversed drill stand.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HCrygwMszRA/U9yW4ZwAYGI/AAAAAAAACtE/a9Ex49Juumg/w590-h393-no/166%2B-%2Bdrillbass.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iaTWd9xSV20/U9yW4gSTsAI/AAAAAAAACs4/2mOGwS46c2Q/w590-h393-no/167%2B-%2Bdrillguitar.jpg


And then fit the dots in the bass
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Js3v-kSGMtQ/U9yW5DO8YuI/AAAAAAAACsc/ebhAUcGcQo4/w590-h393-no/168%2B-%2Bdotsgoin.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-68960M5uPbw/U9yW5bfU3AI/AAAAAAAACs0/tzFTWqK9liI/w590-h393-no/169%2B-%2Bdotsin.jpg

[MisterE]

Now for the start of the cutting of the pointy bits from pearl slabs. Using a pearl saw I cut the shapes - 9 minutes for Each
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qo6p7N-8SaU/U9yW5pq8FrI/AAAAAAAACso/fNDnkTnyzG0/w590-h393-no/170%2B-%2Blovelypearl.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kVKIu2KmVMk/U9yW6IMRR5I/AAAAAAAACss/IA9WMoohiK8/w590-h393-no/171%2B-%2Bcutpearl.jpg


As I started the first one the doorbell rang and some Belgian bloke was there with his wife from Leuven. They were on holiday and could he see and try some basses? Of course he could! So some 2 hours later he had tried the three stock basses to death and his wife was so bored she was considering suicide. They left and I continued cutting pearl into the night!

I stopped when I had completed the bass pieces and I was ready to commit suicide. On the 7 string all the pieces were more or less the same size but this time they start smaller at the headlock and get bigger as they go down the neck.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X3J4uVFV1VU/U9yW6vNN_hI/AAAAAAAACs8/6KO0xYdtHjk/w590-h213-no/172%2B-%2Bbasswingsinlays.jpg


Before I inlay them I have to make the moon shape in the short end of the triangles. That’ll be a job for Monday

ChrisInlaidOut.

[MisterE]

Niet veel nieuws deze week. Chris kreeg nogal veel volk over de vloer.
Het goede nieuws is dat hij wat gitaren heeft verkocht, waaronder de gitaren die hij voor het Leonardo project gemaakt heeft.

Dearest PatientTwin,

More Belgians today but they came to see Syra’s paintings and bought one. Somebody who works for the EU in Brussels so had loads of money.
For my self I started inlaying the bas neck.
First the triangles had to have the ends shaped to fit around the dots. I did this with a round file.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r6tUBolHEC4/U-URyXk0-oI/AAAAAAAACu4/WINPLa8w1xo/w590-h393-no/173%2B-%2Bfileend.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MTcUDHS4Ooc/U-URyS4XWXI/AAAAAAAACuY/7qiEVNxjOmI/w590-h393-no/174%2B-%2Bfiledandnot.jpg


Then I had to cut out the holes for the inlays to go in. I start with a large(ish!) cutter to do the rough work and then a fine cutter to do the pointy bits.


First routing
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o-22t64Oooo/U-URyak2uQI/AAAAAAAACvg/Wvr4cAfpLCo/w590-h393-no/175%2B-%2Bfirstrout.jpg

Big cutter
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NRauJYAbIKs/U-URzIpLNkI/AAAAAAAACuk/W5DaedhAqEY/w590-h393-no/176%2B-%2Bbigcutter.jpg

Smaller cutter
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TxXYy3Z-CTU/U-URzYZpJ1I/AAAAAAAACvE/_TCp4C82xZw/w590-h393-no/177%2B-%2Bsmallcutter.jpg


Once each piece fits in it’s hole I can start to glue them in with superglue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-woG_nEmjrBk/U-URzXxpfwI/AAAAAAAACuo/RDYc67zLprk/w590-h198-no/179%2B-%2Breadytoinlay.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-np1cRnstzo8/U-URznPZJ9I/AAAAAAAACuw/BYjaXE0rB9g/w590-h393-no/179%2B-%2Bsuperglued.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K1sQIkX6_W4/U-UR1YadP4I/AAAAAAAACvo/_c5SeBBihj4/w590-h161-no/180%2B-%2Ballglued.jpg


And that was a day’s work. Actually I could have sanded the inlays down but two guys came as i was finishing who wanted to see the guitars and I think may have sold the lacewood Leonardo guitar. I’ll know tomorrow.

ChrisFingersStuckTogether.

[MisterE]

Yo AnxiousTwin,

No I have not topped myself - yet - but we were due at a cd launch by one of my customers in Dingle yesterday evening so I had to rush off from work at 5.30 so no time to download and send the pics.

There is not much new to see as I just repeated the process I had used for the bass inlays - I cut out the triangles, shaped them, and cut out most of the inlay routs before we left.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FnwJEBz7gcY/U-UR0V7hjwI/AAAAAAAACvY/H0HFfiP_4gw/w590-h304-no/181%2B-%2Bcuttraingles.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yyvOgSCuJT0/U-UR1s8tRGI/AAAAAAAACvM/6jnM8aw4qQo/w590-h393-no/182%2B-%2B5.15pm.jpg


This is how the bass ones turned out.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-78P3vF78e8I/U-UR1xRvA1I/AAAAAAAACvc/SDxnWfd1PFM/w590-h230-no/183%2B-%2Bbassinlays.jpg


And these are the output sockets that I has ordered for the guitar which arrived in the mail yesterday. I rather like them and hope you do too!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wyg8qaGfOJA/U-UR2GkVmgI/AAAAAAAACvU/BLU8GOPFufk/w590-h275-no/184%2B-%2Boutlets.jpg


’ll have the inlay finished by coffee time. There is a guy who is very interested in the second Leonardo guitar coming over some time today so I will have to love bomb him which might take a while!

ChrisBusy.

[MisterE]

Laatste bericht van Chris:

Good evening Dearest FrustratedTwin,

All I got done today was the inlays in the guitar. I actually cut some of them again as I was not happy with the gradation of the sizes but they are OK now.

Blijkbaar dacht Chris dat ik wat gefrustreerd was met de niet zo snelle vooruitgang. ik liet hem weten dat niets minder waar was. ik was blij dat hij zoveel bezoekers over de vloer kreeg en wat gitaren had verkocht. Ik ben blij met iedere vooruitgang.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hNUO4yHTlUU/U-UR3po13RI/AAAAAAAACvs/FwRcAb-0_Ss/w590-h244-no/185%2B-%2Bguiytarinlays.jpg


The guy who bought the guitar comeback to collect and talk so not a great day for progress. And tomorrow will be worse!

Even though it is not the weekend there is bottle of white opened to be enjoyed - stress relief!

ChrisDistracted.

En hij heeft het verdiend!

[MisterE]

Ik loop weer wat achter.
Maandag kreeg ik dit van Chris:

Good evening MondayTwin,

I got the frets into both necks today. Normally I just show a simple pic of the neck unfretted and then fretted but I thought I could do it in a bit more detail and show some of the tools involved.

I buy my fretwire in industrial rolls from Dunlop in California. The rolls come in a standard radius which is too flat for the necks I make so I have a special tool that can adjust this by passing a length of fretwire through it. This tool is adjustable so I can alter the radius to suit. For the 16” radius on these fingerboards I make the fretwire radius about 12”.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xXEmVEn6y9g/U-uir5ahXZI/AAAAAAAACyA/JqUlnTUqqw4/w590-h393-no/186%2B-%2Bfretwireradiustool.jpg


Fretwire before and after.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jdIHhwusstc/U-uikU9hMGI/AAAAAAAACwY/J5npKlJlGWY/w590-h393-no/187%2B-%2Bfretwirebeforeandafter..jpg


As you know the fretslots were cut some time ago on the radial arm saw. To make it easier for the frets to go in I ‘lip’ the top of the fretslot (about 0.3mm deep) with a triangular file about 70% of the width but not the ends of the slot where I want the fret to seat strongly.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HmoIv7SmKzg/U-uikReWDMI/AAAAAAAACwU/gJXthuHUrvQ/w590-h393-no/188%2B-%2Blippinghteslots.jpg


For the bass it is then just a question of cutting a piece of fretwire to the correct length and hammering it in (gently - honestly!) with a ‘dead’ hammer. This a hammer that has lead shot inside the hollow head so that as the head hits the fret the lead follows on a microsecond later and prevents the hammer from bouncing.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Klzir6OvO1o/U-uikxKXTGI/AAAAAAAACz0/sVNIP4RSFVg/w590-h393-no/189%2B-%2Bfretting.jpg


I forgot to show the fretslot depth tool that I use to make sure that there is sufficient depth in the slot to allow the fret to fully seat so here it is. It’s adjustable for different fret types.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Jzc9yXH5dvU/U-uilPZV-2I/AAAAAAAACwo/yR3x-07vhYY/w590-h393-no/190%2B-%2Bfretdepthsaw.jpg


When all the frets are in I use drops of thick superglue to seal the fret ends. This will be invisible when the neck is lacquered.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CjpyVRw1PmQ/U-uil4FCJoI/AAAAAAAACw0/ih0oN0dnDdY/w590-h393-no/191%2B-%2Bfillfretslots.jpg


Then I file the fret ends level with the fingerboard….
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lk6cUh_gMb0/U-uilwr37ZI/AAAAAAAACxc/yy70grp0HiE/w590-h393-no/192%2B-%2Bfilefretends.jpg


….and then fit the side dots (no picture, sorry!) and the job is done.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RCTVQuSuqqU/U-uimgFVejI/AAAAAAAACw4/_JJFvdlavYY/w590-h236-no/193%2B-%2Bbassneckfretted.jpg

[MisterE]

The guitar neck requires some different treatment as it has binding and the frets have to be undercut so that the tang (the bit that goes into the fretslot) does not touch the binding but the fret crown can overlap the binding. There is a special too for this too.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kMk2fTXbfcM/U-uinHqxn9I/AAAAAAAACxM/Jk2JcccSJ2g/w590-h393-no/194%2B-%2Bfretundercutter.jpg


Fret undercut to fit
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qr5gHHIjWlo/U-uinYeZcLI/AAAAAAAACxE/N0-cCAm4vL0/w590-h393-no/195%2B-%2Bfretcuttofit.jpg


Apart from this, which takes time to get right, the fretting process is the same and the sun came out when I had finished!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q4QY6fkwz1I/U-uioOYyFqI/AAAAAAAACxk/QIJ9hYpJ2Gw/w590-h227-no/196%2B-%2Bsunnyguitar.jpg


Just time to cut out two shamrocks for the headstock inlays.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MM3tdbL-TiQ/U-uioqCDOLI/AAAAAAAACxQ/BaRiUJSU_cc/w590-h393-no/197%2B-%2Bcutshamrock.jpg


And then rout the headstock on the guitar for the inlay.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x4YOKnCf5zo/U-uipL1FqYI/AAAAAAAACz8/7WbhTNrJD4A/w590-h299-no/198%2B-%2Bcutshamrockrout.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rp1NeyK_woY/U-uiqSfCNOI/AAAAAAAACx0/LAp8foqTFMM/w590-h393-no/199%2B-%2Bshamrock.jpg

Dat was alles voor de maandag.

[MisterE]

Dinsdag:

Good evening TuesdayTwin,

I think I had a good day and I hope you do too.

First job was to fit the headstock inlays and drill the tuner holes. It’s easy to drill the bass neck because I can hold it with one hand and use the other hand to work the drill press. Not so with the guitar which had a body attached so I could have made some sort of stand to support it but instead I used a Lovely Assistant!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kJOl6hDPQ2M/U-uiqhFirnI/AAAAAAAACxw/dnclG1XtYnc/w590-h393-no/200%2B-%2Bbassinlay.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1yR65LT36O4/U-uirDqenAI/AAAAAAAACzQ/8caP6xhXIK8/w590-h393-no/201%2B-%2Bgeetarinlay.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YNK76NVXMbo/U-uirkt5qWI/AAAAAAAACzY/149XaljMzQE/w590-h393-no/202%2B-%2Blovelyassistant.jpg


When the neck is completed is when I stamp the serial number on the back of the headstocks. So here they are.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CNSgX4vxC7c/U-uir6xl4ZI/AAAAAAAACzM/h_E9m3EiC7Q/w590-h393-no/203%2B-%2Bbassnumber.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8nd2E_V2BJA/U-uisUM2yHI/AAAAAAAACyo/OkbOnPwlBPY/w590-h393-no/204%2B-%2Bgeetarnumber.jpg


With a bit of sanding the neck of the bass could be glued into the body. But I didn’t do that. I had more ambitious plans - carve the guitar top.

How do you do this then on a through neck? The answer is with difficulty!

First I used a small router to set the height of the faux binding. This is the level I have to carve down to.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o7BVXDbdoGI/U-uisn-gi7I/AAAAAAAACyU/vtoytPpAdtI/w590-h393-no/205%2B-%2Bbindinglevel.jpg


Then using a larger router and a guide roller I cut a series of ‘terraces’ which removes a lot of wood.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RPjZZOsja-4/U-uitE6IiDI/AAAAAAAACyY/ISCJ94hiqXg/w590-h393-no/206%2B-%2Bmaketerraces.jpg


Because of the size of the router this cannot work on the two horns so I set to work with chisels and a mallet to remove wood and roughly shape the horns.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LDv3L5EcVXg/U-uitkuQssI/AAAAAAAACyc/rR6fzArvRsg/w590-h393-no/207%2B-%2Bcarvehorn.jpg


When this is done I took the guitar outside and did a rough levelling of the ‘terraces’ with a grinder. Messy job!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IAskdgaUuBo/U-uit6IkFWI/AAAAAAAACy0/E2wgPUoHwGs/w590-h393-no/208%2B-%2Bgrindterraces.jpg

[MisterE]

Then back inside and use scrapers to refine the carving and make the re-curve. Then hand sanding with 120 grit abrasive. I forgot to take a picture of the gauge I use to compare the shape of the carving at different parts of the top - it needs to be symmetrical if it is to look good. You can see the gauge under my phone!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-91gVYCoJnEM/U-uiuJiOtOI/AAAAAAAACzI/aQybNHx2oY4/w590-h393-no/209%2B-%2Bscraperecurve.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Xvccx6f6xTk/U-uiu2an25I/AAAAAAAACzE/y-qNhx9G9TE/w590-h393-no/210%2B-%2Bsandrecurve.jpg


So now the basic shape of the carve is done but the top is only sanded roughly. I won’t do any finishing sanding until I have finished working on the control pocket and a few other bits. But even roughly sanded it looks OK.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_3bg_dsrDKY/U-uivOrrS-I/AAAAAAAACy8/F54yZeqQj5I/w590-h393-no/211%2B-%2B120grit.jpg


You can see where I have made indents for the control knobs. I am actually thinking of slightly refining the neck shape at the body end - it doesn’t feel quite right to me.

Just one more pic of my carving tools which I inherited from a skilled German carver.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cUsT5OU8PQU/U-uivsWsnvI/AAAAAAAACzA/R2EtdtsdyEI/w590-h393-no/212%2B-%2Btoolkit.jpg


’til tomorrow,

ChrisSatisfiedWithTheDay.

[MisterE]

Berichtje van Chris gisteravond laat:

Hello WideAwakeTwin,

First job was to shape the bass heel. Chisel, scrape and sand, and sand, and sand…..
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4JXH8WfcbNc/U-4eAHuMqNI/AAAAAAAAC2I/kEmu9fxICn0/w590-h393-no/213%2B-%2Bgluedinheel.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AGTCf1_gMUE/U-4eAACrZiI/AAAAAAAAC0M/iNQlrBTrCow/w590-h393-no/214%2B-%2Bchiselheel.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n95ETaBs4hI/U-4eAIq-OVI/AAAAAAAAC2A/E1F2QO_y5c4/w590-h393-no/215%2B-%2Bscrapeheel.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TnaV-pvR4l0/U-4eA5Eb9pI/AAAAAAAAC18/GkWGShvho2g/w590-h393-no/216%2B-%2Bsandheel.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B9JlKZv66kI/U-4eBDvGPNI/AAAAAAAAC2M/VTpgEre1KwM/w590-h393-no/217%2B-%2Bsandbass.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l6fdATrCIb0/U-4eBZbo22I/AAAAAAAAC14/yPC_fdhPwVE/w590-h393-no/218%2B-%2Bheelcomplete.jpg


The dark line around the joint is not a bad joint! It is caused by some pencil graphite that I used to mark the jointing area when I was making the neck joint. I forgot to clean it off and the glue seems to have drawn it out of the wood. Hopefully the cherry colour will cover this. It’s a mistake!

For the bass backplate I used the piece of Irish fiddleback sycamore that you admired when I had the inlay pieces stuck on it.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SpOXznqwsEw/U-4eES4YhcI/AAAAAAAAC1c/mirGQxFKFdo/w590-h393-no/228%2B-%2Bbassbackplatemaster.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GJJZobheX_k/U-4eE7D8Q4I/AAAAAAAAC1g/RoBMB8YMUP0/w590-h504-no/229%2B-%2Bbassbaclplate.jpg


Same machine screws for this.

[MisterE]

Next was to sand the top of the guitar to within an inch of it’s life going through all the abrasive grits. I don’t think I have ever sanded a guitar top so much but I want to get every bit of quilt to shine!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M4NJVIrwyKQ/U-4eBqlGMsI/AAAAAAAAC0o/43v41P2e4G8/w590-h393-no/219%2B-%2Bsandrecurveagain.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Yhvwmh45D6A/U-4eByUk-VI/AAAAAAAAC10/wjIVTjHJLo8/w590-h467-no/220%2B-%2Bsunnyfront.jpg


I can do no more!

Time for backplates. Remember this?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7p6G4-IRVDc/U-4eCNzoW-I/AAAAAAAAC1w/9jWpQuVPUDw/w590-h216-no/221%2B-%2Brememberthis.jpg


It’s the piece of the through neck that I removed from the top so there was space for the quilty bit. I saved it for the next stage.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kx3EtjOUYVE/U-4eCuFWQaI/AAAAAAAAC04/CUtAndDerRA/w590-h393-no/222%2B-%2Brawcovers.jpg


OOOh look, it matches the back! And with a bit of work the plates line up!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Uq_5IZqU2DI/U-4eC3SMm1I/AAAAAAAAC1s/obSbjCL5zLw/w590-h393-no/223%2B-%2Bfittedbackplatesguitar.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U-qe6av24Fc/U-4eDFZazCI/AAAAAAAAC1o/7mRiiowD134/w590-h393-no/224%2B-%2Bbatterycover.jpg


The plates will be held on with machine screws into brass sockets- a classy job!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pqqX5rifie8/U-4eDZy7UKI/AAAAAAAAC1I/zuPgugl82jQ/w590-h393-no/225%2B-%2Bscrewinserts.jpg
En gelijk heeft hij!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S3mazc3kU_0/U-4eD1pdi8I/AAAAAAAAC1k/tqk9-eT1WFg/w590-h444-no/226%2B-%2Bsunnybackplates.jpg


And I made the hole in the trem plate for the sure claw adjuster.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BzUZkyvIsuo/U-4eEKbM_gI/AAAAAAAAC1U/NqTmnBBeTRM/w590-h378-no/227%2B-%2Bspringsadjuster.jpg


I didn’t make the control cover for the guitar today as I had to add a piece of mahogany to one edge so as to match the stripes in the back and the glue won’t be set until tomorrow.

I’m hopeful of getting a wash coat of lacquer on both instruments tomorrow except for the quilted bits. I’ll explain why tomorrow. I’m frightened of doing anything wrong as I’m so close to finishing.

Apologies for this being a bit late but we had visitors who came as I was writing this email and they stayed until ten minutes ago.

Cheers,

ChrisScaredOfTheGuitar!

[Noid]

Schitterend topic om door te lezen. Bedankt dat je dit met ons deelt. Inderdaad opmerkelijk hoe communicatief hij is en je bij iedere stap in het bouwproces betrekt, de dilema's die hij daarbij tegenkomt en de oplossingen die hij hiervoor bedenkt (bijvoorbeeld die tremolo). Ook al bouw je hem niet zelf, toch krijg je al een band met het instrument tijdens de bouw. Mooi om te zien hoe de combinatie jaren van ervaring, goed gereedschap en creativiteit, gecombineerd met plezier in zijn werk en de passie om kwalitatief hoogstaande gitaren te maken tot zulke mooie dingen leidt. Zulk vakmanschap dwingt respect af, inspireert en motiveert.

[Malle Eppie]

Schitterend topic om door te lezen. Bedankt dat je dit met ons deelt. Inderdaad opmerkelijk hoe communicatief hij is en je bij iedere stap in het bouwproces betrekt, de dilema's die hij daarbij tegenkomt en de oplossingen die hij hiervoor bedenkt (bijvoorbeeld die tremolo). Ook al bouw je hem niet zelf, toch krijg je al een band met het instrument tijdens de bouw. Mooi om te zien hoe de combinatie jaren van ervaring, goed gereedschap en creativiteit, gecombineerd met plezier in zijn werk en de passie om kwalitatief hoogstaande gitaren te maken tot zulke mooie dingen leidt. Zulk vakmanschap dwingt respect af, inspireert en motiveert.

+ 1! Helemaal mee eens!

[MisterE]

Bedankt voor de mooie reacties.
Ik ken Chris al heel lang en had hem eigenlijk uit het oog verloren.
Toen ik hem drie jaar terug vroeg om een zevensnarige gitaar te bouwen had ik hem gevraagd of hij foto's van het proces wilde maken. Hij doet dit op aanvraag tegen een kleine vergoeding.
Ik vond het zo mooi dat ik dit wilde delen.

Het vervolg:

Good evening CuriousTwin,

Tomorrow morning I’m going to spray all the parts of the bass and guitar that are not quilted maple or fingerboards. But why? This is my thinking. The way to get the black cherry finish is to first stain the quilt black and then partially sand it off and then stain it cherry and then lacquer over it.. The problem with this is that if any of the black or cherry stain gets on to anything that isn’t quilt then it is very hard to remove it because the stain soaks into the wood - don’t ask me how I know this! My solution is to spray all the non quilt with 4 coats of clear lacquer which will seal it and then any spilled stain will not go into the wood. Oooh that was clever Chris! It also means I can protect the edge of the faux binding. That’s very clever too Chris. But this is a pain to do because I will have to re-sand the quilt again after the spraying to remove and glue from the masking tape - but you are worth it.

So here are some shots of the masking which I think are self explanatory.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e4aBQnbUVGs/U_ZEBCBWlNI/AAAAAAAAC3A/bBpXy66Sk-o/w590-h393-no/230%2B-%2Bfingerboardmasked.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1iIyEp8id1c/U_ZEBO-CQRI/AAAAAAAAC28/A-MK7wkRWq8/w590-h393-no/231%2B-%2Bguitarbodyfaux.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YqEdyhCHIgk/U_ZEIgtgj1I/AAAAAAAAC4o/zTjfGedvx6E/w590-h393-no/232%2B-%2Bfauxcloseup.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RrUdE8SM11U/U_ZEByRNuHI/AAAAAAAAC5o/gPDRwD8WhP0/w590-h280-no/234%2B-%2Bguitarmasked.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dAEYRirkX4w/U_ZECc3zcnI/AAAAAAAAC5o/y0eM8Zf53ZU/w590-h393-no/235%2B-%2Bfauxforbass.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yBgWUhU2OqY/U_ZECgkZK7I/AAAAAAAAC5o/---MRd_QqzQ/w590-h393-no/236%2B-%2Bbassbodymasked.jpg


I also had to make the cover for the control compartment on the guitar. Since I had not used this shape of control pocket before I had no template for the cover. Here is how I made one. First I made a paper master.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Rky08HiJWBE/U_ZEC5pCokI/AAAAAAAAC3c/ODyX5dkFlJE/w590-h393-no/237%2B-%2Bpaperpattern.jpg


I stuck this onto some wood and adjusted this to make an exact fitting template. The numbers on the paper are the type of lacquer I use and I had to order this for next week!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e2oGOEvbryA/U_ZEDQsytfI/AAAAAAAAC3k/2BjgZRW0hOM/w590-h393-no/238%2B-%2Bwoodenmaster.jpg


Using the wooden template I made the actual cover from another piece of the stripy through neck with the addition of a small piece of mahogany on the top edge.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S2xQszjD2so/U_ZEE84kJ7I/AAAAAAAAC5A/NnwloabDIFI/w590-h393-no/239%2B-%2Bnew.jpg


And the covers need to be sprayed too so they are attached to sticks so I can move them around to get the lacquer on them.

So that was another good day. White tonight!

ChrisMaskingMeister.

[MisterE]

Volgende dag:

Good early evening DiningTwin,

On Saturday I sprayed the clear lacquer onto the non quilted bits of the instruments. Today I took off the masking and found that some of the lacquer has crept under it so I had to carefully scrape this off back to the wood which took a lot of time for both instruments. I did this in the conservatory as I could sit down!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SS9MptiDit4/U_ZED5qMKWI/AAAAAAAAC3s/wmq6CVF2FUA/w590-h393-no/240%2B-%2Bmicrosdcrape.jpg


Then both instruments needed to be washed and fine sanded to remove any glue from the masking tape. At this stage I was wondering why I had decided to do the masking! Time for some colour so I rubbed on the first coat of black onto the bass. The masking worked as the colour stuck to the quilt and not the lacquered bits.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kKweavU4LnM/U_ZEEcCc3vI/AAAAAAAAC5I/8W55sTOJs5g/w590-h393-no/241%2B-%2Bblackon.jpg


When the black was dry I sanded most of it off.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f9AuRpwVbUA/U_ZEFO0fe_I/AAAAAAAAC38/bs8NkxZph-U/w590-h393-no/242%2B-%2Bblackoff.jpg


Time for red. The first coat looked good and the quilt stood out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hKGXn7LhvVg/U_ZEFvxO0bI/AAAAAAAAC4E/Lhw2xAMWtRc/w590-h393-no/243%2B-%2B1stred.jpg


I was doing a parallel piece of quilt as a trial and did a second coat which looked good so once the first coat of red was dry on the bass I added a second.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vsX2nbCEEdA/U_ZEGGzIyfI/AAAAAAAAC5E/j-dvMQW2CD4/w590-h393-no/244%2B-%2B2ndred.jpg


I like it. Tomorrow I will do the same to the guitar and should be able to get some clear lacquer on both of them which is when the grain should show properly. I will try a third coat of red on the trial piece to see how it looks.

Speaking of lacquer, tell me exactly what you want me to do on the top and backs of both instruments. Bedimir Conspec says silk for top and cherry back, bass Conspec says gloss but that was for cherry burst and now it has a black cherry colour. Gloss on the Bedimir top would emphasise the lovely carving I think, with cherry silk on the back. But you are the customer and the customer is always right.

ChrisBullshittingSalesman.

[MisterE]

De volgende dag:

Good evening SilkTwin,

I put colour on, took colour off, the guitar today and then put 3 coats of lacquer on the colour for both bass and guitar. Also cleaned up the edges for the faux binding and removed colour from the shamrocks and other fiddly things. I like them.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FJK7OBaMuUg/U_ZEGQxS1hI/AAAAAAAAC4M/0FCt-OoCyC8/w590-h393-no/245%2B-%2Bblackongeetar.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e9lCt6iBIcU/U_ZEHGE3tiI/AAAAAAAAC4U/yxr2i-3A9cI/w590-h393-no/246%2B-%2Bsandblack.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m8B5xdbKcjg/U_ZEHnQio3I/AAAAAAAAC4Y/DV0B8hyFmYs/w590-h393-no/247%2B-%2Baddred.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BUj3UzXukvE/U_ZEIYMMdkI/AAAAAAAAC40/nWZi_QNJtj4/w590-h393-no/248%2B-%2Bcleanshamrock.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UPH84s6Mbw4/U_ZEJL2M_BI/AAAAAAAAC4w/3x5bbCZ3iEU/w590-h393-no/249%2B-%2Bbasslacquered.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iR51takvhew/U_ZEJ5lSa7I/AAAAAAAAC44/bpdcyzAmyK4/w590-h393-no/250%2B-%2Bgeetarlacquer.jpg


Tomorrow I have to put at least three more coats of lacquer on the quilty bits. These coats front and back are just to fill the grain of the wood and then, when sanded back, will give a smooth surface for the final finish coats.

[MisterE]

Berichtje van gisteravond:

Hello WeekendWineyTwin,

We had a day of visitors. Andrea’s parents and brother were here most of the morning then we met some friends from Northern Ireland who have a house here when we were having our walk. They came back for tea and talked.
Andrea's broer heeft negen basgitaren van Chris en momenteel is Chris er nog eentje aan het bouwen voor hem.


Anyway I spent what working time I had sanding the lacquer off the instruments. How many times have I hand sanded them now? The plan, as you know, is to sand until there is a smooth surface for the colour and finish coats of lacquer. I did the guitar first and then masked off the bits that are not going to be coloured.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w9O-JI-iiMA/U_hEcAle4jI/AAAAAAAAC6A/cqoBevCK5p8/w590-h393-no/251%2B-%2Bsandguitaragain.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3Ka7tESrNuw/U_hEcBoE97I/AAAAAAAAC6Q/nQkEccR8z6o/w590-h393-no/252%2B-%2Bstartmaskingbinding.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q42vk7PY9sk/U_hEcIvSRRI/AAAAAAAAC6I/3npQYdVftTA/w590-h250-no/253%2B-%2Bguitarmasked.jpg


And this is as far as I got with the bass before dinner time. I’ll get this one sanded and masked tomorrow morning then have the colour on tomorrow evening.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o_4ut_Da59c/U_hEcomQNEI/AAAAAAAAC6E/B6G_KZxlppw/w590-h393-no/254%2B-%2Bsandbassagain.jpg

Chris gebruikt geen poriënvuller maar legt opeenvolgende laklagen die hij tussenin schuurt tot hij een glad oppervlak krijgt.
De fabrikanten gebruiken poriënvuller omdat dit goedkoper is. ze moeten minder lak gebruiken en er komt bijna geen handschuurwerk aan te pas. Anders zouden de gitaren veel te duur worden.
Ze hebben ook niet die diepte in de lak als een handgebouwde gitaar.

[D3nnis]

Ze hebben ook niet die diepte in de lak als een handgebouwde gitaar.

Op de echte professionals na wellicht, heb ik juist de indruk dat handgebouwde gitaren vaak minder diepte laten zien.
Als je een mooie transparante porienvuller gebruikt, zou dat dan nog steeds minder diepte laten zien?

[jaywalker]

Echt wonderschoon! ...en ik ben helemaal geen liefhebber van dit soort gitaren/bassen (style en vormgeving). Maar dit vertel je vast niet door toch? ;)

[Orpheo]

Ik compenseer liever lakdikte en dus glans voor tone. Hoe dikker, hoe plastiekerig hoe minder 'alive' het is. Het is niet kwanitificeerbaar, het is een gevoelskwestie. Top hoogglans als het maple is en dan lekker de rest satin.

neemt niet weg dat ik 't een prachtig duo vind.

[MisterE]

De lak is uiteindelijk niet zo dik omdat er tussendoor heel wat afgeschuurd wordt.
Wel "zakt" de lak als het ware in de stukken die wat meer doorlaten waardoor de laklaag in het begin niet helemaal effen is en je daardoor wat moet schuren. Daarna weer enkele lagen spuiten, politoeren om de lagen te vermengen enzoverder...
Persoonlijk geloof ik niet in het fabeltje van dunne laklagen en nitrocelluloselak en dergelijke. En hadden vroeger gewoon niets anders.
Ik ben van mening dat de body zelf heel weinig invloed heeft op de klank. En de lak op de body daardoor nog veel minder. Wat zouden een paar hondersten van een mm verschil op een body van 6 cm maken in de klank?
De hals des te meer omdat die in aanraking komt met de snaren en dus door resonantie bepaalde frequenties verzwakt en versterkt.
IMHO & YMMV

[Orpheo]

Ik geloofde het ook nooit. was cynisch, tot ik een goed klinkende LP afschuurde die hoogglans was en 'm lakte in thin skin nitro zonder porefiller (en later een LP die helemaal kaal was versterkt testte en later met lak). Ik merkte een verschil in resonantie en respons. Idem met gelakte hals of niet. Het zijn 10001 kleine verschillen die het grote plaatje een succes of failure maken :)

[stijnkenens]

Ik denk dat het toch eerder tussen uw oren zit.

Ik geloof nooit dat een laklaag van enkele tienden van een mm zoveel doet aan klank ...


s.

[Orpheo]

Ik denk dat het toch eerder tussen uw oren zit.

Ik geloof nooit dat een laklaag van enkele tienden van een mm zoveel doet aan klank ...


s.

Het is heel simpel om er niet in te 'geloven', maar probeer het zelf eens. Heb je wel eens een gitaar getest met en zonder lak? Ik ben gelukkig niet alleen in mijn visie: Jean Larrivee, Andy Powers/Bob Taylor en Nik Huber denken er hetzelfde over. Het gaat erom dat het een dichte barriere is die de vibratie belemmerd.

[MisterE]

Er zijn mensen die denken dat stroomkabels van €500 ook een verschil maken in een hi-fi installatie.
Of die kunnen horen wanneer je met een lamp op een speaker schijnt. :seriousf:
Zoals je het beshrijft is het alsof de laklaag belet dat de vibraties naar buiten treden.
Zoniet gaat het om de massa van de laklaag ten opzichte van de massa van de body.
Alles zit tussen je oren.

Leuk filmpje over audio mythes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ

[stijnkenens]

Het is heel simpel om er niet in te 'geloven', maar probeer het zelf eens. Heb je wel eens een gitaar getest met en zonder lak? Ik ben gelukkig niet alleen in mijn visie: Jean Larrivee, Andy Powers/Bob Taylor en Nik Huber denken er hetzelfde over. Het gaat erom dat het een dichte barriere is die de vibratie belemmerd.

Van Larrivee en Taylor wil ik dat zeker nog geloven, omdat het hier over akoestische instrumenten gaat, waarbij het net van belang is dat het klankblad kan trillen. Dat is ook wat Parker zegt over zijn archtops, die hij afwerkt met epoxy, zodat ze steviger worden, en hij dus dunnere klankbladen kan maken.

En neen ik heb nog geen gelakte / ongelakte elektrische gitaar vergelijking gedaan
1. Eigenlijk ook DE reden: er zit teveel tijd tussen, en zeker omdat ik het zelf heb gedaan denken mijn hersenen dat er wel een verschil MOET zijn.
2. Hoe was de gitaar de eerste en de 2e keer afgesteld, de hoogte van de pickups, al is het maar een halve mm verschil, heeft meer invloed op je klank dan een laklaag !

Het kan er bij mij niet in dat een laklaag van enkele tienden van een mm zelfs maar enige invloed heeft op de klank van een dikke plak hout !
Bij het gebruiken van een poriënvuller vul je maximum de eerste halve mm van het hout, aan 2 zijden wordt dat dus 1 mm + (en even kort door de bocht) nog een halve mm lak erop.

Dus op een body van 4,5 cm dik is dat 3,5 procent van de totale dikte van de plak hout. En in het totaalpakket van de gitaar is dat nog minder, dus ik vind dat te verwaarlozen.

Een elektrische gitaar kan je niet vergelijken met een akoestisch instrument: iemand met goed hout, goede hardware en goede houtbewerking skills kan van de eerste keer een goed klinkende elektrische gitaar bouwen. Een akoestische bouwer moet minstens 20 tot 30 instrumenten gebouwd hebben om te weten wat elk onderdeel van het klankblad, rug en zijkanten doet aan de uiteindelijke klank. Iemand kan je aanleren hoe dik een klankblad moet zijn, hoe hoog en breed de balkjes, maar het is pas de ervaring die zal bewijzen of je ook goed klinkende akoestische gitaren kan bouwen.

En nu terug on topic: nog foto's van Chris?



s.

[MisterE]

En neen ik heb nog geen gelakte / ongelakte elektrische gitaar vergelijking gedaan
1. Eigenlijk ook DE reden: er zit teveel tijd tussen, en zeker omdat ik het zelf heb gedaan denken mijn hersenen dat er wel een verschil MOET zijn.
2. Hoe was de gitaar de eerste en de 2e keer afgesteld, de hoogte van de pickups, al is het maar een halve mm verschil, heeft meer invloed op je klank dan een laklaag !

Het kan er bij mij niet in dat een laklaag van enkele tienden van een mm zelfs maar enige invloed heeft op de klank van een dikke plak hout !

Ik kon het niet beter verwoorden.

Hier nog wat kiekjes:

Yesterday evening I sprayed the red on the backs and necks. I didn’t take any pics until this morning. I screwed the back plates in place when I sprayed to ensure an even colour. The fiddleback sycamore takes the colour rather well I think.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r2DN5GqvAUw/U_tYttIIM8I/AAAAAAAAC7o/r_DI78NzEug/w590-h600-no/255%2B-%2Bred.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ij-ZaHOj5cc/U_tYtsN-EKI/AAAAAAAAC7k/UNYscP8WUYA/w590-h393-no/256%2B-%2Bredbackgeetar.jpg


Today I will remove all the masking and clean up any accidental overspray then I should get the final coats on both.

Ik ben benieuwd.

[MisterE]

En zonet binnen gekregen:

Good evening HomeTwin,

I scraped the binding and all the rest of the places where there were edges of masking tape, signed the headstocks and sprayed the final coats. That’s it for today. I’ll let the lacquer cure before going to the next stage which will be finishing the finish.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XQbR96V1X38/U_t6ANG1izI/AAAAAAAAC8w/Ar5cEI3mIrg/w590-h393-no/257%2B-%2Bscrapeit.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9uf8_DLej6o/U_t6AI2U-iI/AAAAAAAAC8o/3iq3bfNbvE8/w590-h393-no/258%2B-%2Bscrapefauxbinding.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NUvNKTbvuo0/U_t6ANGI60I/AAAAAAAAC8g/9HIJyVWN1Og/w590-h393-no/259%2B-%2Bsign.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RdQtvobCN7A/U_t6A5Z5u9I/AAAAAAAAC8c/Fozhn43seOg/w590-h393-no/260%2B-%2Bsilk2.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n7AtMzZqwOU/U_t6BNyaLWI/AAAAAAAAC8k/iDkctCUuECQ/w590-h393-no/261%2B-%2Bsilk1.jpg


Cheers,

ChrisSprayedOut.

[MisterE]

Maandag:

This evening I started on the bass. First I checked that there were not any lumps on the finish (you don’t want lumps, no you don’t) and then I rubbed all the lacquered bits with very fine wire wool lubricated with fine beeswax - no silicones.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jakDKtQqiB0/VACdDNq2I4I/AAAAAAAAC9g/5u74wgrJMQc/w590-h393-no/262%2B-%2Bwirewoolandwax..jpg


A quick rub with a clean cloth and the finish feels nice - no stickiness. Next job is to work on the frets If you can remember there were two layers of tape on the fingerboard. Why two layers Chris? The top layer protected the fingerboard from lacquer and the second layer protects the fingerboard from me when I work on the frets. So, off with the upper layer.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LaHg4sJVC2g/VACdCw1n8oI/AAAAAAAAC9Y/MhffLqrhNfI/w590-h393-no/263%2B-%2Bpeelofffirsttape.jpg


At this stage I want to protect the body of the guitar as, from now on, I am going to be working with some sharp metal tools and we wouldn’t want to slip! Stiff cardboard is cut to fit around the fingerboard end and some masking tape is used at the headstock.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n0K1SM4F4rM/VACdDGinz_I/AAAAAAAAC9c/p_pPZF9-eVI/w590-h393-no/264%2B-%2Bprotectthetop.jpg


After fitting the frets I levelled the fret ends with the side of the fingerboard. Now I create an angle (about 30 degrees) using a file between the fret end and the edge of the fingerboard. If I didn’t do this there would be a lot of blood when playing the guitar as the player’s fingers were shredded by the sharp fret ends.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Wef7Q7VxZ1Q/VACdLKFl9GI/AAAAAAAAC_w/n6I9EbjmJpw/w590-h393-no/265%2B-%2Banglefretends.jpg


The fret ends are still quid sharp after the angling process so I round off any sharp edges using a triangular file.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-01kKq_B-L_w/VACdD1FVYPI/AAAAAAAAC9s/rJ5NEN2RE8E/w590-h393-no/266%2B-%2Bfretends.jpg


At this point I should explain that my fingernails were clean when I started this process but are now filled with wax and wire wool residue from the first part above! I am not a dirty person (except sometimes when I am working on my moto but even that is temporary!

When the frets were fitted I tried to get all the tops level. This is almost impossible so now I use a long metal file to gently remove any high spots. I do this under the overhead light and when I can see file marks on all of the frets they are level.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NDauVgtUao4/VACdEa8oulI/AAAAAAAAC90/npXt3WOatzU/w590-h393-no/267%2B-%2Blevelfrets.jpg


Anywhere metal was removed by the file the frets will be slightly flat so I have a special concave shaped file that round off the flat bits. This is called crowning the frets.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WtTy5s0tGKg/VACdEpQA5MI/AAAAAAAAC98/7ux5h0FFhaM/w590-h393-no/268%2B-%2Bcrownfrets.jpg


After the files I rub the frets with abrasive papers to remove any marks that the files may have left. I start with 320 get, then 600 and finally 1200. But even that is not good enough so a final polish with fine wire wool does the job.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8MDlNPQg_Sk/VACdFKLpKdI/AAAAAAAAC-U/HlfhVoihTA0/w590-h393-no/269%2B-%2Bpolishfrets.jpg


Peel off the second layer of tape and the frets look pretty good. And so do the inlays.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ThNglVBwzk4/VACdFRtCMeI/AAAAAAAAC-E/v-keQ8vAPEo/w590-h393-no/270%2B-%2Bremovetape.jpg


Final job for the end of the day is to wipe the rosewood with a little lemon oil to seal the surface and then I can go off to clean my hands before dinner!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nWGk5pxEuR4/VACdF1AI0dI/AAAAAAAAC-I/hrhdIlhn2Es/w590-h393-no/271%2B-%2Blemonoil.jpg


Now I have to think hard before I do anything else so I’ll say good bye for now. But I will be back later.

ChrisFretboardKing.

[MisterE]

Dinsdag:

I got to the workshop and started by shielding the cavities of the bass with very expensive, self adhesive, copper foil. Why are you doing this Chris? Pickups and circuitry can act as aerials for radio frequency interference. What??? Radio frequency in this case is the interference caused by electrical stuff around the house, in the studio or on-stage, stuff like fluorescent tubes, dimmer switches, stage lights, mobile phones and, in the countryside where we live, electric fences. Even digital watches. This interference is amplified by your amplifier and could spoil you wonderful performance. So if you cover all the components in a guitar with a copper envelope and connect it to earth it acts as an aerial and absorbs all the interference. Actually you can’t cover everything but you can get close. This copper foil has a glue that is conductive as well so you can just stick bits of it together which makes it easy to cover as much as possible. It is also possible to paint the cavities with a conductive paint and earth that but it isn’t as effective. The first thing I shielded were the pickup cavities. The piece of copper you see in the picture that is in the bridge cavity is the link that will join the foil in the bridge cavity to the neck cavity and then onto the control cavity. Enough cavities, we need pictures.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7Coz9uS_Ni4/VACdGZaCveI/AAAAAAAADAE/L-8TeZs8lmk/w590-h393-no/272%2B-%2Bonedone.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T_9J3nH0Xgo/VACdG8f3HQI/AAAAAAAADAA/vMFRVOQGxFs/w590-h393-no/273%2B-%2Bcutcontrolholes.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-85uPDgYeVtQ/VACdHVeN4DI/AAAAAAAAC-g/Twu3Q9OWBCw/w590-h393-no/274%2B-%2Bcopperedcavity.jpg


Next on to the pickups. These are custom made humbuckers. The one on the left with the wider gap is for the bridge position. It has a wider gap because it has more magnets than the neck pickup because it needs to have a stronger output. Why? Because the strings vibrate less closer to the bridge than they do over the neck. It makes a difference.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SdJSYHi6ngo/VACdHyr21YI/AAAAAAAAC_8/o6TC80x8GKU/w590-h415-no/275%2B-%2Bbridgeandneckpups.jpg


Humbuckers can be wired in two ways, with the coils in series or in parallel. Series wired have more output and more midrange. I don’t think you need this in a bass so I prefer the parallel wiring for basses which widens the frequency response producing a softer sound with less output. So here are the pickups with the coils wired in parallel and fitted into the body.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XqdiZVmTCb0/VACdIPacF-I/AAAAAAAAC_4/SQCFOKi_VbI/w590-h393-no/276%2B-%2Bserieswired.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uAbkUgLZ8O4/VACdIcYm0zI/AAAAAAAAC_0/uoWNrG_g7YE/w590-h393-no/277%2B-%2Bpickupsin.jpg


The bridge is fitted with RMC saddles which will give an alternative and more acoustic option in sound to the magnetic humbuckers. The wire from each saddle has to be marked when inside the control cavity so that I know where to connect it on the RMC circuit.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pHskxk6ihCg/VACdIi-7RdI/AAAAAAAAC-0/k-ZB3slj7IM/w590-h393-no/278%2B-%2Bsaddlewiries.jpg


Now if I had some tuners (Schaller’s finest) a nut and some strings it would look like an instrument. Tuners have to have locating screws fitted and the nut has to be made from a piece of micarta. Strings are hand made Newtones with taper winding on the most bass strings.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XLAutsROOd4/VACdJDYfDDI/AAAAAAAAC_A/z4G90pUNQ64/w590-h393-no/279%2B-%2Bdrilltuners.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JcVLsQ6kpsE/VACdJeNFKlI/AAAAAAAAC_s/fRcVEN-BXj0/w590-h393-no/280%2B-%2Bmakenut.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hgXMQZ5ruko/VACdJhApHYI/AAAAAAAAC_I/MBk8dVxjveY/w590-h393-no/281%2B-%2Bstringson.jpg

[MisterE]

At this stage I can tune the bass and adjust the trussrod. Next the nut slots have to be adjusted to give the correct clearance at the first fret. For basses this should be 0.5mm. When this is done I can roughly set the action which will be set perfectly later along with the intonation.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x-lAQB_pl4Y/VACdKNufNvI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/cmkNtnzl9bc/w590-h393-no/282%2B-%2Badjustnutslots.jpg


Time for a bit of wiring. This is quite a complicated system with magnetic pickups, piezo pickups, a 3 band active EQ from Aguilar, a buffering pre-amp from RMC, six potis, one of them with a switch, another stacked and a 3 way miniswitch! I reckoned the best way to do this was to chuck all the components into the control cavity, go away and make a cup of coffee and hope that the Wiring Fairy would come and connect it all together while I was away.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NZZ-aNF0VJg/VACdKTaLQpI/AAAAAAAAC_o/eHn608tJzx8/w590-h393-no/283%2B-%2Bchuckitinthehole.jpg


It didn’t work this time (it never has!) so I started to solder the components for the EQ first and this is as far as I got by 7pm which is stopping time.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tqpZf3kH4Jk/VACdK57JxBI/AAAAAAAAC_c/aOmPJdKVPno/w590-h393-no/284%2B-%2Bwiringat7pm.jpg


In case you are wondering why the copper shielding comes out of the cavity it is so that it will connect with the copper shielding that will be on the inside of the cover plate so making a copper box.

ChrisNearlyThere.

[MisterE]

Woensdag:

Today did not turn out well. As I had the magnetic pickups installed I decided to try them passive before I did any more wiring. Each pickup worked on it’s own but they would not work together. So I put on my Electronic Sherlock hat and eventually discovered a faulty balance pot. I had one other pot in my stock and, when I checked it with the meter, it was also faulty. Now it was almost lunchtime and there is nowhere in Ireland that would have a new pot so I called my supplier in the UK, told him this was urgent and could he put some perfect balance pots in the mail for me immediately. This he has done so I hope to have the items by Monday or Tuesday.

Then I moved to the guitar and did the same stuff to it as I did to the bass so no pics. In this case as all the pickups are humbucking and enclosed so I did not need to put copper foil in the pickup cavities just in the control pocket. So here is the single pic for the organisms so they won’t be disappointed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pFQl-HQwIWk/VACdLaz2qJI/AAAAAAAAC_g/748p1P8g2aA/w590-h316-no/285%2B-%2Bgeetar.jpg


Tonight I have to start the Newsletter if I am to have any chance of finishing it.


ChrisHolmes.

[MisterE]

Laatste nieuws voordat ik vertrek naar Ierland om de meeste te ontmoeten en m'n speeltjes op te halen:

Dit ontving ik vrijdag:

Hello RelaxedFridayTwin,

The wiring continues. I’m doing the sustainiac bits first as they are by far the most complex! The sustainiac driver is a single coil but there is the option to use an internal preamp in the sustainiac circuit to make it sound like a humbucker. It will be hard wired not switched. Do you prefer SC or HB?

Other than that things are very slow. After fitting the shielding and the claw adjuster I was able to fit the trem, tuners, locking nut and string the guitar up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dg5AFQzluoM/VANop654uwI/AAAAAAAADC8/FFgHOxKAVK0/w590-h393-no/286%2B-%2Bshielded.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vY4QGxeQavU/VANopwYSgbI/AAAAAAAADCM/Zl3tAqlw7FA/w590-h393-no/287%2B-%2Bpretty.jpg


I tuned it up acoustically and set the action and also checked that intonation adjustment was possible.

When I started to fit components I realised that the sustainiac PCB and the 5 way switch were too tall for the cavity. The 5 way switch was easy to fix - I just ground some of the switch off until it fitted! For the sustainiac I had to rout a pcb shaped channel through the shielding and into the wood 2mm deep. I do not like using a 1.5hp router on an almost finished guitar!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-41FRj8oFJtY/VANop5zfYnI/AAAAAAAADCA/c90TJPrrn4M/w590-h393-no/288%2B-%2Bcutthisout.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tTTEbaOSO5c/VANoqbQ7NTI/AAAAAAAADC0/BSm0PfNTVag/w590-h393-no/289%2B-%2Bididntwantodothis.jpg


After repairing the shielding the pcb fitted.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DuoKrmGRjpE/VANoqwrWhAI/AAAAAAAADCU/W4TibYChLMM/w590-h393-no/290%2B-%2Bnowitfits.jpg


So I started the wiring which is very slow work as there is very little space to work in, the switch I am using does not correspond with the diagram from sustainiac and there are wires that I therefore have to find homes for. Two of these are for the preamp I mentioned above. This is as far as I have got by the end of the day.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VjfcPUQb1zg/VANorQ8kZeI/AAAAAAAADCk/-e65JftPpgU/w590-h393-no/291%2B-%2Bsofarsogood.jpg


Tomorrow I again have a full day of repairs but I’ll try to do the most important ones and then get back to the wiring. I started the Newsletter last night and maybe will get some more done tonight before dinner. After dinner and wine I won’t want to work.

Cheers,

ChrisWiredOut.



De volgende dag:

Good evening GiggingTwin,

Just finished for the day. Wiring is complete but needs a little tweaking. On testing the magnetics work perfectly but the Sustainiac just squeals when I switch it in circuit. On the piezo side there is nothing!. I did start looking at the piezo side because it is simpler but could find no fault. At this end of a long day I have had enough and will sort it out tomorrow or Monday. Looking forward to my wine tonight.

Here are some pics.
Hij noemt me giggingTwin omdat ik 'm net verteld had van ons optreden met onze Alice Cooper Tribute band The Elected Babies (https://nl-nl.facebook.com/ElectedBabies)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FkS1WNqxBqQ/VANorqcfXkI/AAAAAAAADCw/ZZ7Yr6ZamtQ/w590-h393-no/292%2B-%2Bspaghetti.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ks7jDKAdRgw/VANosKSmE2I/AAAAAAAADCo/2oIH7HYhf_w/w590-h393-no/293%2B-%2Bcavities.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ersaPdph-fs/VANosl-gfdI/AAAAAAAADCs/7OQ3hBLYruw/w590-h393-no/294%2B-%2Boutlets.jpg


ChrisTiredAndEmotional.

Zo dat was het dan.
Volgend bericht komt rechtstreeks uit,Ierland ;-)

[fred dons]

Ik ben sowieso meer van het lakken dan olien omdat ik denk (en dit zonder enig wetenschappelijk bewijs) dat een rubberachtige substantie in de porieen van het hout smeren in ieder geval geen positief effect kan hebben op het het resoneren (los van de vraag hoe belangrijk dat is bij een electrische gitaar)
daarnaast denk ik wel dat als je een plank hout inkapselt met een weliswaar dunne maar zeer harde (lak) laag dit een effect moet hebben op het hout (zonder hier vervolgens een waarde oordeel aan te hechten)

maar terug on topic, prachtige gitaren !!!!!



Van Larrivee en Taylor wil ik dat zeker nog geloven, omdat het hier over akoestische instrumenten gaat, waarbij het net van belang is dat het klankblad kan trillen. Dat is ook wat Parker zegt over zijn archtops, die hij afwerkt met epoxy, zodat ze steviger worden, en hij dus dunnere klankbladen kan maken.

En neen ik heb nog geen gelakte / ongelakte elektrische gitaar vergelijking gedaan
1. Eigenlijk ook DE reden: er zit teveel tijd tussen, en zeker omdat ik het zelf heb gedaan denken mijn hersenen dat er wel een verschil MOET zijn.
2. Hoe was de gitaar de eerste en de 2e keer afgesteld, de hoogte van de pickups, al is het maar een halve mm verschil, heeft meer invloed op je klank dan een laklaag !






s.

[MisterE]

Vorige week teruggekomen van een reisje naar Ierland waar ik de instrumenten heb opgehaald bij Chris Larkin.
Ze overtreffen mijn stoutste verwachtingen.
De gitaar klinkt op de bridge pickup vet en vol, de sigle coils en combinatie midden pickup en bridge zijn strat teritorium.
Zelfs de Sustainiac klinkt als pickup heel goed.
Ik had voor een 22-frets gekozen omdat naar mijn bescheiden mening de neck pickup dan meer als een strat gaat klinken dan bij een 24-frets gitaar.
Sustainiac werkt perfect.
De piëzo's zitten op een afzonderlijke output. Ik heb er voor gekozen om de gewone pickups niet aan te sluiten op de Graphtech preamp omdat die teveel ruis toevoegt.
Deze gitaar is ongetwijfeld de mest veelzijdige uit mijn verzameling.
Enkele kiekjes:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k8aSCegv16Q/VB1GAks1RkI/AAAAAAAADJs/thzctFfgDO0/w1298-h856-no/Bedvere%2B%281%29.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GV5x96x4PTE/VB1GBuwUXFI/AAAAAAAADJc/jufJ19r4hb4/w1391-h497-no/Bedvere%2B%282%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lMHDXZdSBU0/VB1GC0U85-I/AAAAAAAADJk/rZIfRD_HVmM/w1391-h453-no/Bedvere%2B%283%29.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Wj7EJsenfC8/VB1GEJk1CDI/AAAAAAAADJ0/iPQUxNLijSY/w1390-h840-no/Bedvere%2B%284%29.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/PlRsh4KgAuGrLl82NJK4LxGA0alXi5MgwI7eaArBKRU=w1351-h856-no

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ym8BrLyN9ZQ/VB1GFlWh6iI/AAAAAAAADKM/2DF65UwqZAY/w1391-h563-no/Bedvere%2B%286%29.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UxPHAx2VYJ4/VB1GIf-BQ5I/AAAAAAAADGA/ssCU2waeIb4/w1284-h856-no/Bedvere%2B%287%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5nyAP2NbJHY/VB1GHoh2WEI/AAAAAAAADKU/7fX86QJS5Yw/w1391-h498-no/Bedvere%2B%288%29.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xc_QA5KK1lo/VB1GKpDDQ-I/AAAAAAAADKc/vtrzSE5KyvY/w943-h856-no/Bedvere%2B%289%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GkDSDR3CTr8/VB1GCKujLFI/AAAAAAAADKk/hYTuSowT_N4/w1391-h514-no/Bedvere%2B%2810%29.JPG

[MisterE]

De bas:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZK05ApU5W7s/VB1GLusj4dI/AAAAAAAADK8/D5RDVvSOTjw/w1390-h587-no/Galahad%2B%281%29.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tfvEW6mEhD4/VB1GPosxdXI/AAAAAAAADLE/cNRcXWOoKTk/w1391-h502-no/Galahad%2B%282%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yRoSuo4zmQU/VB1GRkz1m_I/AAAAAAAADLM/mJEVN_QaF4g/w1190-h856-no/Galahad%2B%283%29.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QWRnhVmupcA/VB1GThQ40sI/AAAAAAAADLU/UmNxL67asfM/w585-h856-no/Galahad%2B%284%29.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9pCG3qbnnQc/VB1GWjJIVbI/AAAAAAAADLc/tgLjZYjppME/w1112-h856-no/Galahad%2B%285%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QN2LSASaui8/VB1GYKYya3I/AAAAAAAADLk/2Yp7nHaAFgE/w1265-h856-no/Galahad%2B%286%29.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M4E7cCrW48E/VB1GZSdfruI/AAAAAAAADLs/sLULEDXVYIo/w1146-h856-no/Galahad%2B%287%29.JPG

[Noid]

Mooi, wat een strak gebouwde en afgewerkte gitaren zijn het geworden. Nogmaals dank dat je de foto's en het proces van de bouw van de bas en gitaar met ons gedeeld hebt, dit was een topic om van te genieten.
Misschien heb ik het gemist, maar wat is de reden voor de dubbele strapbutton bij die strat?

[jaywalker]

geil en tekens